Bosnia & Herzegovina

Travel changes you. And in no way do I mean to draw upon the tortured clichés of first-time backpackers, who experience an “epiphany” that sets them upon an lifetime journey to fulfill some primal desire to explore. Beyond those initial giddy moments of stepping off a plane in a foreign land, there’s that one moment when everything changes—that instant when you see the world in a different light for the first time, bearing its teeth, scars and all.