As much as I love wandering about in Hong Kong’s cityscapes, it isn’t exactly what I’d call relaxing. With the chaos of Kowloon, Wan Chai, and Central starting to buzz in my brain after a few days of exploring, I knew I needed a reset.
After asking a few locals for some hiking recommendations, I settled on exploring the southeastern corner of Hong Kong Island on the iconic Dragon’s Back. And it quickly became one of the best decisions I made on my second trip to Hong Kong.
The epic Dragon’s Back Trail winds 8.5 kilometres from To Tei Wan to Big Wave Bay over Shek O Peak in the Shek O Country Park. And the views along the way, well, they are simply magnificent!
As I ascended towards the 284-metre-high Shek O Peak (backwards, as I discovered after the fact), dramatic vistas of the rugged coastline, mountainscapes, and sea unfolded in every direction. Even in a city that’s hardly short of spectacular views, these ones were some of the finest I laid my eyes on.
Want to capture all the magic for yourself? Let me walk you through how to hike the Dragon’s Back like a pro, including what to see & expect along the way, how to avoid my biggest mistakes, and how to get there & back without a fuss.
My recommended hiking route
Whelp, I guess here’s where I admit that my minimalist travel planning doesn’t always hit the mark. Although I knew about the Dragon’s Back after my first trip to Hong Kong, I didn’t know many specific details. You know, all those “minor” details like where the trailhead is, how to get there, and, well, how to return to civilization afterwards.
Fortunately, since you’re here, you won’t need to repeat any of my silly mistakes.
The official starting point of the Dragon’s Back is off Shek O Road at To Tei Wan (map). I started my hike, instead, at the Cape Collinson Road entrance to Shek O Country Park (map), which lies between the main section of the trail and its extension to Pottinger Gap and Big Wave Bay.
(This is what happens when you rely on bus drivers’ advice versus following along on a map. Oops!)
After doing the hike “backwards,” I can see why the official route makes more sense.
The first reason is obvious. Starting the hike at Cape Collinson Road cuts off an interesting finale to the epic trek, ending at the beautiful white-sand Big Wave Beach.
The second is that the official hiking route tackles the steep ascent to Shek O Peak right off the bat when your legs are at their freshest. After the peak, the trail gets far easier. It’ll give you a bit of a break before the steep descent to Big Wave Bay.
(In my experience, that steep section between Shek O Peak and To Tei Wan is also much easier uphill than downhill. My knees were screaming by the time I got back down to the bus stop.)
When tackling the Dragon’s Back, I would highly recommend wearing a pair of sturdy hiking shoes. Several parts of the trail are rocky and uneven. Be sure to also bring enough water (and snacks) to cover a few hours of hiking. There are no refill stations on the route.
As the sections of the trail along the ridgeline are heavily exposed, I’d suggest bringing sunscreen and a hat as well.
I’d recommend planning to tackle the Dragon’s Back in the morning. In my experience, the crowds here tend to peak around sunrise and dip from 7 to 9 am before peaking again around lunchtime.
Hiking in the morning also means minimizing your time in the midday sun, which in Hong Kong can get sweltering, particularly on hot & humid summer days.
With all that said, let’s take a look at each section of the Dragon’s Back…
Shek O Peninsula Viewing Point
From the To Tei Wan bus stop, walk onto the cobblestone path, which quickly turns into a rocky, dirt path. This first section of the trail is surrounded by dense greenery and is well-shaded.
After a steep, half-kilometre stretch of rock stairs, the landscape opens up as you reach the Shek O Peninsula Viewing Point (map). The panorama point features a small wooden terrace with a bench, perfect for resting your burning quads.
You might want to rest up a bit here, soaking in the south-facing views over the Shek O Peninsula before moving on. The next part of the trek is gonna be challenging!
Shek O Peak
From the viewing point, wind further up the trail to the Dragon’s Back Pavilion (map). The “pavilion” isn’t much to behold. But if you need to rest, get a little shade, or escape a sudden downpour, it’ll do.
Follow the signs and swing right at the rest area to continue along the Dragon’s Back to Shek O Peak (map). This final ascent to the 284-metre-high peak is one of the more challenging sections of the trail. (This was the one section where I think hiking in reverse worked out in my favour.)
After the first steep and uneven section, the trail opens up to stunning sea views to the east as you walk along the ridgeline. Further along towards Shek O Peak, the Dragon’s Back holds true to its name, wobbling between flat, easy-to-walk paths and uneven rocky segments.
(At this point in my trek, I was very glad I was wearing some robust hiking shoes. I would highly recommend it for anyone attempting the walk.)
When I finally reached Shek O Peak, I was mesmerized by the dramatic views. Looking to the southeast, I could spot Shek O and its namesake Shek O Beach; to the northeast, Big Wave Bay, the “official” terminus of the Dragon’s Back.
Dragon’s Back Viewing Point
From Shek O Peak, it’s a relatively easy hike to the trail’s next vantage point: the Dragon’s Back Viewing Point (map). This is the final viewpoint before the descent towards the back half of the trail.
The Dragon’s Back Viewing Point is, in my opinion, one of the finest along the trail. The vistas here are wide open, winding a full 360 degrees. As I was hiking on a clear November day, I was able to see all the way over Tai Tam Bay to Stanley in the southwest, and even as far as Lamma Island.
Even more impressive was catching a glimpse of the Dragon’s Back itself, ruggedly riding the hilly landscape.
Pottinger Gap
Although the distance looks intimidating from above, the section of the Dragon’s Back from the viewpoint to Pottinger Gap (map) is relatively easy-going, save for a few uneven, rocky segments.
Once you descend from the ridge, there’s plenty of shade as well to keep you cooler. (Another reason why I believe the “official” route is the smartest option!)
Follow the mountain trail to the paved path. If you’re ready to pack it in, turn left and walk to Shek O Road to catch the bus back to the city. Otherwise, swing right and continue along the easy paved path to Pottinger Gap.
Grab some shade and rest at Pottinger Gap before the challenging descent to the trail’s end in Big Wave Bay. Don’t leave without sneaking a peek at Chai Wan’s skyline between the rolling hills and trees.
Big Wave Bay
We’re on the home stretch, but that doesn’t mean it’s gonna be easy! The trail between Pottinger Gap and Big Wave Bay (map) is one of the most challenging sections of the hike.
From the picnic area, follow the signs to Big Wave Bay. The trail starts with a stretch of steep concrete steps leading to a rugged trail for the rest of the descent. (Keep an eye out for overgrown tree roots on the path; they can be sneaky!)
When you finally exit the trail and pass through part of the village, you’ll reach the beautiful white-sand Big Wave Beach (map). Let your hair down and pat yourself on the back for completing one of Hong Kong’s most epic hiking trails!
Cool down with a cold Dragon’s Back Pale Ale craft beer or cocktail at Eric’s Kitchen (map), the only restaurant on Big Wave Beach.
Truthfully, I can’t, in good conscience, recommend eating here, though. There’s a multitude of delicious options awaiting elsewhere on Hong Kong Island.
After my hike, I headed back down to Central and chowed down on wonton noodles at Mak’s Noodle (77 Wellington St). And it did NOT disappoint. It gave me just enough energy to continue my day in Hong Kong, exploring all of the city’s cool tourist attractions.
Transportation
Getting there
Thanks to Hong Kong’s excellent public transportation system, getting to the Dragon’s Back Trail is a cinch. First, ride the MRT to Shau Kei Wan Station on the Island Line.
From Exit A2 at the MRT Station, walk across the street to the Shau Kei Wan Bus Terminus. Hop onto bus 9 or the red “Shek O” minibus. Get off the bus at the To Tei Wan stop on Shek O Road. The trailhead is beside the bus stop.
Getting back
From Big Wave Beach, venture south on Big Wave Road to the village’s bus stop. Take bus 9 or the red minibus to the Shau Kei Wan MRT Station.
