The Grass Is Always Greener On the Other Side of Oman

If you haven’t been, it’s hard to know what to make of it. Say you’re considering a holiday to the Middle East to some, and they might envision endless golden sand dunes, oil barons donned in Keffiyehs and maybe even the odd jihad terrorist. However, say you’re going to Arabia, and the more romantic images begin to be conjured up thanks to the likes of stories such as The Thousand and One Nights and The Queen of Sheba. Such legendary stories paint pictures of twinkling sands tramped by camel caravans bearing frankincense to exotic cities revolving around extravagant palaces loaded with gold. But rolling grassy green knolls disappearing into misty lush woodlands? The Dhofar province is perhaps a little misunderstood. Never failing to surprise and delight those that have grown tired of heat-induced mirages and the solitude of the empty barren deserts, Dhofar is a picturesque tropical oasis marooned within the dry and dusty sands.

The Tropical Oasis of Dhofar

Creepers on the tree stems

The southern province of Dhofar is a remarkable place. It’s a world apart from its neighbouring regions and has a mountain range draped across from East to West, composed from more than 400 kilometres of mountains. The region is filled with cloud forests, waterfalls cascading into ‘wadis’ and the coastal butterscotch-coloured sand beaches are hugged by coconut groves. The secret ingredient to the region’s green success and what makes it unique amongst Oman, is what’s known as the ‘Khareef’ rains. The mountain range is a magnet for India’s very own monsoon rains, luring them across and keeping the soil moist and pleasantly refreshed. This is the greenbelt of the Middle East, and it’s no less of a rugged, adventurous and authentic experience that’s putting Oman on the map of swashbuckling adventurers, just with a lick of green grass and a few less deserts.

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Salalah is the commercial hub of the country and is the capital of the Dhofar region. Low-lying mists often drift through this epicentre which is also known as the ‘Green City’. This is where cosmopolitan chicness collides with a soft-sanded palm tree dotted beach and has a scrumptious medley of juicy fruits and fresh seafood. Although white-washed buildings make up the majority of the city’s dwellings, it’s a colourful city that retains a laid-back allure. Within the city, the New Souk is a pedestrian complex where many come to stock up on frankincense, and the old town buzzes around the Al Husn Soul where traditional products are sold in dinky little shops. Nearby, the city of Zafar is also a protected archaeological site offering a fix of history for culture creatures.

The surrounding areas perhaps offer the real surprising finds where green pastures suddenly spring out of nowhere. Nearby is Jabal Samhan, a luminous green coastal range leading to the Wadi Dharbat, a scenic place to enjoy the jebels. During the Khareef, an eerie white haze of fog floats over its green pastures, sometimes even clouding visibility. Waterfalls and limestone pools present gentle swimming options, and the waters here mark the starting point of the estuary that runs in to Khor Rouri. But what is perhaps Dhofar’s trophy piece, is the intimidating travertine as it transforms into a waterfall during the Khareef – some even say this is Dhofar’s most photographed site.

Mughsayl not far away is famed for fierce blow holes and the nearby groves of wild Frankincense. Just a little further is Tawi Atayr, where more spectacular scenery follows. Also known as Well of Birds, this sinkhole plunges into the limestone of the Salalah mountain range and is expected to be around 100 metres deep. Further on, Taiq Sinkhole can be found, even more dramatic than its predecessor. Some say it could be the third largest sink-hole in the world, at an impressive 200 metres deep.

dhofar beach

On the other hand, follow the gin clear waters from Wadi Dharbat and the trail will lead you to the idyllic Khor Rouri area. It does have the crumbling remnants of a historical city, alas, it’s closed for business and closed for visits. It does however have a stunning lagoon with an estuary supporting a flourishing bird population and some lovely wildlife. A good spot for bird watching, flamingos, herons and an array of other avian creatures can be spotted paddling in the waters along possibly some of the country’s prettiest bays. There’s a handful of creeks between Salalah and Sadah, the largest being the one just below Sumhuram.

So who said that Oman was just a dusty desert with nothing but a few sand snakes and camels to keep you company. Dhofar presents an attractive alternative, with its sub-tropical feel, balmy beaches and the Dhofar Mountain range that’s topped by its biologically unique cloud forests. Dhofar is the action-packed Middle Eastern experience you want, just tickled green from a good sprinkling of rain.

Have you been to Dhofar? Do you have any recommendations for fellow travelers? Have your say below!

Kirsty Warren

Kirsty is a nomadic wordsmith who shares her experiences by writing whilst on the road, bringing fresh stories from faraway. Originally from London, she is now enjoying the colours, chaos and curries of India. By profession, Kirsty’s field is Public Relations, her passion is wildlife and travelling is her way of life.

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