A few decades ago, I wouldn’t have dared to hang out on Singapore’s Keong Saik Road. Located at the edge of Singapore’s Chinatown, this notorious street was a veritable no-go for visitors. After exploring the area for myself on all three trips to Singapore, I found the story completely different.
When I stumbled upon Keong Saik Road on my first trip to Singapore, it became obvious to me that this former red-light district had done a remarkable job of cleaning up its act. In fact, after already having explored much of the city, it felt like one of Singapore’s hipper corners to me.
Once home to brothels and other seedy enterprises, Keong Saik Road’s elegant heritage shophouses got a much-needed refresh. Today, they’re home to some of Singapore’s trendiest restaurants, cafés, bars & places to stay.
Here are a few spots I’d recommend checking out while exploring Keong Saik Road…
But first… a brief history lesson
To say the history of Keong Saik Road is—ahem!—colourful is an understatement. During the 1930s, Keong Saik Road began to sprout up brothels in the area’s heritage buildings. It proved profitable. For locals suffering after the losses of the Great Depression, it was a much-needed shot in the arm.
The red-light district boomed into the 1960s and 1970s. Keong Saik Road developed an unpleasant reputation as Singapore’s shadiest corner. It wasn’t until the 1990s that the area began to reverse its fortunes.
As the brothels fell out of favour, restaurateurs and hoteliers saw an opportunity. They leveraged Keong Saik Road’s handsome appearance and revitalized the neighbourhood. Soon, a slew of eating & drinking establishments replaced the seedier establishments.
Today, Keong Saik Road is one of the most vibrant hotspots for eating & drinking I stumbled upon on my three trips to Singapore. Locals and travellers alike love to wander about the area.
The first moment I rounded the corner from New Bridge Road, after a morning of exploring Singapore’s Chinatown, I was struck by the pastel-hued Peranakan shophouses along Keong Saik Road. In these beautiful heritage buildings, I found plenty of places to chase after some of Singapore’s tastiest food.
Visiting after hours, the area also struck me as the perfect destination to unwind at some of the city’s hippest after-work bars.
(On one of my trips, I was staying at the nearby Dorsett Singapore, so I had plenty of opportunities to walk through Duxton Plain Park to the street entrance at New Bridge Road to check this place out in the evening.)
Where to eat along Keong Saik Road
As much as I love the look of Keong Saik Road, what kept me coming back to this corner of Chinatown was the food. Every time I walked along the street on my Singapore trips, I discovered a splash of superb restaurants covering everything from affordable Singaporean food favourites to upscale Euro-inspired dishes.
(I even spotted a few Michelin mentions in restaurant windows!)
Here are a few of my favourite places to eat along Keong Saik Road:
NOTE: Before we dig in, I should warn you that the food & drink scene along Keong Saik Road has changed massively since my last visit. Not only are some of my favourite restaurants gone, but even some of the places that replaced them are gone! I’ll try to keep this section updated, but it’s admittedly hard to keep up with when things on the ground are changing so quickly.
Cure
One of the most popular restaurants along the strip, Cure serves up unique dishes meticulously prepared with the freshest seasonal ingredients. The setting is classy and intimate. I’d recommend both the five-course menu and the chef’s tasting menu.
Meta
Thanks to stuffing a coveted Michelin star under its belt, Meta is a favourite in the area. With Chef Sun Kim at the helm, Meta has become one of Keong Saik Road’s top culinary hotspots among locals.
Chef Kim melds influences from his native South Korea into the restaurant’s French-inspired dishes for a completely unique Singapore dining experience.
NOTE: This restaurant has since moved to 9 Mohamed Sultan Rd near Fort Canning Park.
Neon Pigeon
This hip izakaya serves up Japanese pub-style food. When I stopped in on my first visit to Singapore, I loved the wide variety of unique dishes here, from duck tonkatsu to crab cakes. The chilled underground industrial vibe was über-cool, too.
NOTE: Since my last trip to Singapore, this restaurant has moved to 36 Carpenter St. Locals still seem to be digging it, and hail it as one of the city’s coolest izakayas.
Three Buns
Located in Potato Head Folk (more about it later!), this burger joint delivers meaty happiness. Many locals would swear that Three Buns delivers the tastiest burgers in Singapore.
All their main signature burgers—Bun DMC, Baby Huey, Smokin’ B-Boy—use prime grass-fed Australian Black Angus. They’re all mouth-wateringly juicy & delicious!
NOTE: This restaurant is now permanently closed.
Afterglow by Anglow
This contemporary eatery is one of the best places to grab fresh vegetarian food in Singapore. There’s a wide variety of Asian and international favourites here. Try out their spicy Korean bibimbap or veggie burgers.
NOTE: This restaurant has since permanently closed.
Keong Saik Bakery
Feeding my sweet tooth was never a problem along Keong Saik Road. And this bakery was one of my favourite places to do it. The menu is eclectic, blending Singaporean bakery favourites with Western influences.
I loved their popular green egg bun. It spins together a matcha egg filling in a sweet bun. Or, for a more savoury treat, taste their XO Lup Cheong, a French pastry with sausage and mozza.
NOTE: This bakery moved to 70 Bendemeer Rd (#01-03) since my last visit.
Kok Sen Restaurant
With its nod in the Singapore Michelin Bib Gourmand Guide, fortunes shifted for this family-run joint. This unpretentious decades-old restaurant skyrocketed from a local to an international favourite.
It’s the most popular place along Keong Saik Road to eat zi char (made-to-order) Cantonese cuisine. You can’t go wrong with much here. I ordered the claypot yong tau foo and big prawn bee hoon soup, and they both hit the spot for me.
Thevar
This popular Keong Saik Road restaurant is located in Meta’s original location. Chef Mano Thevar will forever change your appreciation of Indian cuisine.
This isn’t the place to go for classic dishes like butter chicken or tikka masala. Rather, this restaurant offers innovative experimental dishes.
I’d recommend trying their crispy Pork Jowl, slow-cooked and deep-fried in sambar spices. Or, for an exotic treat, indulge in berry pulao, a biryani infused with lemongrass, cranberries, and pistachios.
NOTE: Thevar has since moved to 16 Mohamed Sultan Road near the Clarke Quay area.
Gaston Burgundy Bistro & Wine Bar
For French food along the strip, you can’t go wrong here. With Gallic flair, this popular bistro cooks up classic Burgundian dishes. You’ll have no problem enjoying classics like beef Bourguignon and escargots de Bourgogne.
Be sure to make reservations on the weekend. While walking about the area on my trips to Singapore, I’d often see this bistro jammed up on busy nights.
Pasta Bar
This open-concept kitchen was my favourite place to get an Italian fix along Keong Saik Road. It serves up a variety of unique twists on pasta.
The pumpkin & sage tortelli and vegan lagane with chickpeas & chilli garlic oil were absolutely epic and well worth a taste!
Butcher Boy
This fusion bar & grill serves up innovative grilled meats with unmistakable Asian inspiration. The baos—stuffed with buttermilk fried chicken and yuzu kosho mayo—are one of the tastiest dishes I’ve tried in the area. Give them a taste to see what the fuss is all about!
NOTE: This restaurant has permanently closed since my last trip to Singapore.
Olivia Restaurant & Lounge
You don’t need to visit Barcelona to experience Catalan-inspired cuisine at its finest! The hearty dishes here fuse Asian and Spanish flavours for a truly mouthwatering experience!
While checking out the menu here, I also spotted a fantastic selection of Spanish and international wines to pair with your meal.
Man Man Unagi Japanese Restaurant
As you’d guess from the name, this Japanese restaurant specializes in unagi (freshwater eel). The unagi at this popular eatery is grilled and spiced to perfection, bursting with smoky flavours.
Where to drink
Many locals and visitors feel Keong Saik Road is at its best in the evening. And after spending a few nights wandering about the area, I’d agree!
As I roamed along Keong Saik Road, I could see there was no shortage of nightlife options. Whether you’re looking for a hip place to sip lazily on a craft beer or a more raucous night of slamming cocktails on a rooftop, there’ll be a spot for you.
Start your night out at one of these popular places to drink along Keong Saik Road…
NOTE: Like the eating scene, bars around Keong Saik Road are also changing at a rapid-fire pace. Most of the bars that were around on my last trip to Singapore are now closed. Big updates pending!
139 Singapore (formerly Potato Head)
It’s only been around half a decade, but the Singapore location of this legendary Bali bar has become a Chinatown area favourite. Besides its popular burger restaurant, Potato Head draws in partiers. It’s home to a third-floor cocktail club, Studio 1939, and a top-floor tiki-inspired Rooftop Bar.
NOTE: I was sad to learn that this bar didn’t make it through its name change, and is now permanently closed.
DON HO Social Kitchen & Bar
Located in The Working Capitol, this Hawaiian-themed bar & restaurant tickles the taste buds. DON HO’s menu is adorned with a blast of fresh & fruity tropical cocktails. Their Australia-inspired food menu is also a hit among foodies.
NOTE: Since I visited, this bar is now permanently closed.
Papa Doble (formerly The Old Man)
The original Hong Kong location of The Old Man is listed among the best bars in Asia. When its Singapore location on Keong Saik Road opened, it certainly had some large shoes to fill.
We’re happy to report that it did. The bar’s Hemingway-themed cocktails are staggering winners. They range from the gin & tonic-based Islands in the Stream to the Gruyere cheese & raspberry-infused The Snows of Kilimanjaro. Even the old man himself would approve.
NOTE: This bar has been renamed to Papa Doble and is currently temporarily closed.
The Guild
This popular beer bar harbours the location of a former speakeasy. On hot days, it was one of my favourite places along Keong Saik Road to tame my thirst with an eclectic selection of craft brews.
The food menu fuses hints of American cooking with Singaporean flavours. It’s as creative as it is delicious!
NOTE: The Guild is now permanently closed.
Where to stay
Although there’s only a small selection of hotels on Keong Saik Road itself, I’ve found plenty of top-notch accommodations in the surrounding areas. If you want to stay nearby, look into hotels in Chinatown or Tanjong Pagar, including…
- Q Loft Hotel 1929: This hotel is our recommendation for budget travellers on Keong Saik Road. We love the cozy modern rooms and sun terrace with great views over the city.
- Hotel Soloha: This brand-new hotel is located on Teck Lim Road next to the area. The rooms here offer stylish contemporary designs and are spacious by Chinatown standards.
- Kesa House: This mid-range hotel is our top accommodation choice on the street. We dig the clean & comfortable modern rooms within a wonderfully restored heritage shophouse. We’d recommend upgrading to one of the roomy suites for a full self-catering option.
