When I visited Dongdaemun District on my first trip to Seoul, I must admit that I didn’t leave all that impressed. I’d already spent plenty of time exploring the bustling Myeongdong and Insadong areas. So walking into Dongdaemun mid-afternoon, checking out a couple of shopping malls, and then leaving, felt, in comparison, well, a little meh.
It wasn’t until I re-visited Dongdaemun District on my second weekend trip to Seoul that I realized how badly I’d misjudged it. And many first-time visitors make that same mistake.
What I discovered is that Dongdaemun rewards people who show up earlier and stay later. Its popular shopping malls are only part of the story. (And, frankly, it’s the least interesting part.)
A few blocks away, a 14th-century city gate marks the start of a hiking trail that follows the old Joseon city wall up to one of the better views I’ve found in central Seoul. Around the corner from the market, a neighborhood of Uzbek and Mongolian restaurants with Cyrillic signage feels more like Central Asia than South Korea. And the iconic, futuristic Zaha Hadid building dominating the Dongdaemun skyline looks completely different after dark than in the light of day.
Don’t make the same mistake I did. Here’s how I’d spend a full day and night in Dongdaemun District to squeeze in all its highlights and actually enjoy every step of the way…
Start your morning on the historic side of Dongdaemun
Dongdaemun’s shopping malls won’t open until mid-morning at the earliest. This makes the early hours the perfect time to explore the side of the district that most first-time visitors miss entirely on their first Dongdaemun itinerary.
Step back in time at Heunginjimun Gate
From Dongdaemun Station Exit 9, Heunginjimun Gate is right in front of you. This is the perfect spot to launch our day in Dongdaemun.
On my first visit to the area, I walked straight past this gate on the way to the shopping malls. This is the most common mistake I see visitors make when checking out this neighborhood for the first time.
Heunginjimun, also referred to (naturally) as Dongdaemun Gate, was originally built in 1396 under King Taejo. It was renovated in 1453 and last rebuilt in 1869. Today, Heunginjimum is the oldest remaining main gate in Seoul after Sungnyemun was destroyed by fire in 2008, and was designated National Treasure No. 1 by the Korean government.
The first time I stood in front of Heunginjimun, surrounded by six-lane traffic and glass shopping towers, I noticed how completely out of place the gate felt.
(After visiting the city on several weekend trips, I eventually realized that “out of place” is exactly on par for Seoul.)
The most interesting detail I spotted here is the Ongseong, a curved semicircular outer wall that wraps around the front of the gate. It’s the only one of Seoul’s eight historic city gates to have one, and the reason matters.
All the other city gates were built on elevated ground with natural defensive advantages. Heunginjimun, however, sits on the lowest-lying section of the entire wall. It was the most vulnerable point in the city’s defenses, and the Ongseong was built to make up for that.
Entry into Heunginjimun is free, and the gate is open around the clock. I wouldn’t spend more than 15 minutes here. It’s a prelude to the City Wall trail, not a destination in itself, but it’s worth the stop before heading uphill to our next destination.
Hike the Seoul City Wall to Naksan Park
One thing that caught me off guard the first time I was here was the road crossing immediately after Heunginjimun Gate. It’s one of the more confusing intersections I’ve had to cross in central Seoul. (And, man, that’s really saying something.)
The direct path has no crosswalk, which means crossing three separate times to hop onto the trail. It sounds minor until you’re standing there watching traffic zoom by and trying to figure out how not to get smushed in this real-life game of Frogger you’ve just committed yourself to.
I’d recommend following the signs rather than assuming the most obvious route is correct.
Before starting the climb, I’d duck into the Seoul City Wall Museum at the base of the trail near Heunginjimun. It’s free, takes about 15 minutes, and gives enough context about the wall to make the hike feel like a history lesson, not just a thigh-torching exercise.
From the third floor of the Seoul City Wall Museum, you can exit directly onto a higher section of the trail. This will help you skip the steepest part of the initial climb.
(I’m not lazy by any means, but I’d take that shortcut every time, especially if I were visiting during Seoul’s hot & humid summer months.)
The trail up to Naksan Park follows the Seoul City Wall uphill through the Ihwa-dong neighborhood. In the southern section near Heunginjimun, the path splits into inner and outer trails.
I’d recommend taking the inner trail. It snakes inside a public park with city views opening up as you climb, while the outer option follows a street alongside passing cars.
(Just note that the inner trail also doesn’t go all the way up to the summit of Naksan. You’ll naturally merge onto the outer path about halfway up.)
As you’re hiking, take note of the stonework along the wall. It’ll shift noticeably as you go, with different shapes and textures marking different periods of construction. It’s the kind of detail I wasn’t expecting to find interesting. (And then couldn’t stop noticing.)
The summit of Naksan sits at 124 meters compared to the summit of the more popular Namsan at 265 meters. I’d actually argue Naksan is the better of the two hikes for most first-time visitors to Seoul.
Namsan has the iconic N Seoul Tower and the cable car crowds to match. Naksan is quieter, far less touristy, and delivers a panorama over central Seoul that I felt was just as rewarding as Namsan without all the fuss.
The climb from Heunginjimun to the Naksan summit is about half the full 2.1 kilometer trail from Heunginjimun in the south to Hyehwamun in the north. Most reasonably fit hikers should make it to the top of Naksan in 30 to 40 minutes from Dongdaemun.
PRO TIP: The southern section of the trail from Heunginjimun is the steepest part of the route. If you want a more leisurely hike, start instead at Hyehwamun (map), accessible via Hansung University Station Exit 4, and reverse the itinerary. The northern route up Naksan offers a more gradual climb than the southern approach.
Wander down through the Ihwa Mural Village
The descent from Naksan Park drops you into the Ihwa Mural Village, one of the more unusual corners I’ve seen in central Seoul. Before 2006, Ihwa-dong was a declining hillside working-class neighborhood facing demolition.
The Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism stepped in to save it with the Art in the City initiative. They commissioned around 70 artists alongside local volunteers and university students to cover the alleyways, staircases, and walls with murals, mosaics, and sculptures. The whole project took about six months.
What strikes me most about Ihwa Mural Village is how lived-in it feels compared to anything else in this part of Seoul. The art competes with laundry lines, potted plants, and cats who couldn’t care less you’re there. I found that vibe more charming than the murals themselves.
That said, I’d manage expectations before visiting. Ihwa Mural Village. Some of the most famous murals, including the famous koi fish staircase that put Ihwa on the map, were removed after years of disputes between residents and the endless stream of tourists who came with the art project’s success.
If you go specifically to see the murals, you might leave slightly underwhelmed. Go for the atmosphere and the views, though, and I think it could be one of your more memorable stops in this part of the city.
PRO TIP: Keep in mind that, like the charming Bukchon Hanok Village, Ihwa-dong is a real neighborhood. Be sure to keep the noise down out of courtesy for the locals.
Before heading back down toward Dongdaemun, I’d stop at one of the hillside cafes for a coffee with a view:
- Cafe Gaebbul (26 Naksanseonggwakseo 1-gil) is one of the more interesting options here. It doubles as a small museum with Lock, Pottery, and Kitchen exhibits included with your order. The outdoor observation deck offers excellent views over the Seoul skyline.
- Reading Cat Cafe (18-2 Naksanseonggwakseo 1-gil) is a more casual alternative, with a cat-themed interior and a second-floor balcony overlooking the city wall.
Spend the afternoon eating and getting cultured
Grab lunch in Gwanghui-dong around Central Asia Street
From Ihwa Mural Village, head back down toward Dongdaemun and make your way to Gwanghui-dong. It’s a short walk or one subway stop from Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Station.
Walking on Central Asia Street in Gwanghui-dong for the first time, I thought I’d stepped through a portal. Cyrillic signs, the smell of grilled mutton, a travel agency advertising flights to Tashkent, all of it sitting a few blocks from Dongdaemun Market.
(Seoul is never short on surprises, but this one I did NOT see coming.)
The community in Gwanghui-dong is largely made up of Koryo-saram, ethnic Koreans whose ancestors were forcibly deported to Central Asia under Stalin in 1937. Their descendants eventually made their way back to South Korea, bringing their adoptive food and culture with them. Gwanghui-dong is also home to one of the largest Mongolian communities outside Mongolia itself.
Here’s where I’m gonna make this Dongdaemun itinerary a little weird…
I didn’t get a chance to eat in Gwanghui-dong on my last visit to Dongdaemun, but it’d be at the top of my list next time. I’ve had a soft spot for Central Asian food since eating my way through Moscow and St. Petersburg, so this’d be a no-brainer for me, just to take a break from all the Korean goodies.
If I had to pick one spot around Gwanghui-dong, I’d opt for the Fortune Café (154 Mareunnae-ro) to gobble down all the Uzbek classics.
(I’d love to try their lagman. This hearty hand-pulled Uzbek noodle soup is usually loaded with beef or lamb, carrots, potatoes, and peppers in a rich spiced broth. I went out of my way for it multiple times during my trip to Russia. I loved it so much I even learned to cook it myself when I got home!)
Beyond Fortune, the streets around Gwanghui-dong have plenty of Mongolian and Russian options worth exploring if you’re feeling adventurous. (And need a break from the usual Korean food.)
Take a stroll around the Dongdaemun Design Plaza by the light of day
From Gwanghui-dong, the Dongdaemun Design Plaza (281 Eulji-ro) is a short walk away. Oh, and don’t worry: You’ll know it when you see it.
The late Zaha Hadid designed the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, and it opened in 2014. I don’t have a better description for it than a spacecraft that landed in central Seoul and decided to stay for the Korean fried chicken.
The entire exterior of the DDP has no straight lines or right angles, just flowing aluminum curves that look different depending on where you’re standing.
(The design reminded me of Frank Gehry-designed buildings I’d seen elsewhere, like the MoPop in Seattle, but without his signature fractured, angular forms.)
On my first visit to Dongdaemun Design Plaza, I walked around the outside for a good 15 minutes before going in to check out the interior. The modern curved corridors, stairwells, and halls are nearly as striking as the exterior.
Entry to the exterior, Oulim Square, and the DDP Design Store is free. The exhibitions inside charge separately and vary by event.
Even if nothing is running, I still think the interior and rooftop garden are worth a stroll.
(NOTE: The museum spaces at the DDP are closed on Mondays.)
What I find even more interesting than the building itself is what’s underneath it. During construction, workers found remains of the old Seoul Fortress Wall. Instead of building over them, the city preserved them in the adjacent Dongdaemun History and Culture Park, which is free and sits right alongside the plaza.
As stunning as the Dongdaemun Design Plaza is by day, I’d suggest coming back here after dark. The 222-meter media facade that lights up the exterior is worth seeing at night and is one of the coolest spots I’ve found around Seoul for night photography.
Explore Dongdaemun after dark
Wander through Dongdaemun Market
Dongdaemun Market is the reason most travelers visit this part of Seoul. The sheer scale of this shopping area caught me completely off guard on my first visit.
This isn’t a single market. (Yep, I got that wrong on my first visit, too.)
Dongdaemun Market is a massive commercial district covering around 10 city blocks, with 26 shopping malls, 30,000 specialty shops, and 50,000 manufacturers all operating in the same area. Walking into it without any context is a reliable way to spend an hour going in circles.
The shopping at Dongdaemun Market gets mixed reviews from first-time visitors. The fashion malls like Doota, Migliore, and Hello apM are enormous and stay open late. But prices aren’t always as bargain-basement as people might expect.
I’d go into Dongdaemun Market with realistic expectations rather than assuming you’ll scoop up deals you can’t find elsewhere in Seoul. The wholesale market, which operates from around 10 pm through 5 am, is where the real action is if fashion buying is the goal.
What I’d prioritize over the shopping any day of the week is Mukja Golmok, the food alley off Jong-ro 40-gil near Dongdaemun Station Exit 9.
The name translates to “Let’s Eat Alley,” and, oh man, it earns it. Grilled fish and whole-chicken soup are the specialties here, alongside all the usual Korean street food favorites, like tteokbokki (sweet & spicy Korean rice cake) and hotteok (Korean pancakes).
The standout is Granny Jin Ok-Hwa Original Dak Hanmari (18 Jong-ro 40ga-gil), which has served whole-chicken soup in this alley since 1978.
(There are several similar restaurants in the same alley, but Jin Ok-hwa is the one with the queue out the door, which, in my experience, is usually reason enough to pick it over the others.)
The dish is exactly what it sounds like: a whole young chicken boiled in broth with potatoes, leeks, and spring onions, served in an aluminum basin. At around ₩18,000 to ₩22,000 for a whole chicken that feeds two to three people, it’s one of the better value meals in Dongdaemun.
Head here before 6 pm. (Or expect to wait in a queue out the door.)
If grilled fish is more your thing, the Dongdaemun Grilled Fish Alley (Jong-ro 40ga-gil), a few buildings east, does mackerel and halibut with a full set of side dishes for ₩7,000 to ₩10,000.
PRO TIP: Need more food options? Gwangjang Market lies about 1 kilometer east of Dongdaemun Market. It’s the far better destination of the two for foodies. The food selection at Gwangjang Market is one of the best I’ve found while exploring Seoul.
See DDP light up after dark
After dinner, head back to Dongdaemun Design Plaza. The building we walked around this afternoon will look completely different after dark.
Since January 2026, DDP has run a permanent year-round light installation called Dream in Light, which illuminates the 222-meter facade every evening from 6 pm to 10 pm.
The facade changes color with the temperature, with warm tones in winter and cooler hues in summer. Standing in front of it and watching the building shift is a truly magical experience.
It’s free and requires no planning beyond showing up and enjoying the show.
The LED Rose Garden, alongside the Yigansumun Exhibition Hall, is worth a few minutes, too. It lights up automatically at sunset and is one of those small details that catches you off guard if you’re not expecting it.
I came back to DDP after dark on my second visit to Dongdaemun and wished I’d done it on the first. With the neon chaos of the market behind and the building glowing silver and blue ahead, it’s one of the better after-dark scenes I’ve experienced in central Seoul.
Wind down along Cheonggyecheon Stream
From DDP, Cheonggyecheon Stream is a 10-minute walk west. The entrance at Cheonggye Plaza drops you below street level onto a riverside path that runs alongside the water.
After a full day in Dongdaemun, I found walking along the Chonggyecheon Stream a great way to decompress. It feels quiet(ish) in a way nothing else around central Seoul ever does.
Cheonggyecheon Stream is lit up at night year-round. If you’re visiting in December, the annual Seoul Lantern Festival lines the first 1.2 kilometers from Cheonggye Plaza with traditional hanji paper lanterns and LED installations, all free to walk through. It runs most years from mid-December through early January.
You can grab a beer from a convenience store and drink it on the path, which is exactly what I’d do at the end of a day like this.
(Yes, I was shocked, too. Drinking in public is legal in Seoul. It’s worth checking, however, for any no-drinking signs before you crack one open, as some local authorities have been cracking down on it in some areas.)
How to get there
Dongdaemun is well connected by subway from anywhere in central Seoul. For Heunginjimun Gate and Dongdaemun Market, use Dongdaemun Station on Lines 1 and 4. For the Dongdaemun Design Plaza and the Central Asian Street area, Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Station on Lines 2, 4, and 5 is the better option.
For everything else you need to know about getting around Seoul, check out my complete Seoul transportation guide.
