Exploring Insadong: Things to See & Do in Seoul’s Most Traditional Neighborhood

Of all the neighborhoods I explored on my weekend visits to Seoul, Insadong was the one that felt most unlike the rest of the city. I remember turning onto Insadong-gil from busy Yulgok-ro for the first time, and feeling immediate relief. After my first couple of days of sensory overload in one of Asia’s biggest cities, stumbling into this beautiful area felt like a much-needed break.

With a few visits under my belt now, I wouldn’t exactly call Insadong “quiet,” but this traditional area still has a way of slowing you down. (And in a city like Seoul, I think that says something.)

The neighborhood sits in the heart of Jongno-gu, wedged between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung. Its central location makes it one of the easiest neighborhoods to fold into a first-time Seoul itinerary.

The main drag, Insadong-gil, runs about 630 meters and is car-free during the day. In my experience, it gives the area a more relaxed energy than other central areas, like Myeongdong and Dongdaemun.

What I loved even more was wandering into the side alleys off the main street to explore the neighborhood more leisurely. As I strolled around, I discovered everything from antique shops and museums to traditional teahouses and laid-back cafes & restaurants serving some of Seoul’s tastiest food.

Here’s what I think is worth checking out in Insadong as a first-time visitor to Seoul…

What to see & do in Insadong

Sip on cha and eat snacks at Shin Old Tea House

Insadong has no shortage of traditional teahouses, but Shin Old Tea House is the one I’d point any first-time visitor toward. It’s been charming travelers for decades with its rustic hardwood floors, wooden window shutters, and traditional floor seating. It’s the kind of place that makes you want to sit down and stay longer than you planned.

The tea list at Shin Old Tea House runs to several dozen varieties. In cooler weather, I’d point first-timers towards the ginger or jujube tea. Both come with hangwa, those puffy Korean rice snacks that dissolve the moment they hit your tongue. For a break from Seoul’s blistering summer heat, the fruity iced teas are a solid call.

Fair warning: Shin Old Tea House is on the pricier side for a teahouse (being a tourist favorite for decades gives you that privilege, I guess), and there’s a minimum order of two per table. It’s not a dealbreaker, but it’s worth knowing before you settle on this spot.

• Address: 47-8 Insadong-gil
• Opening Hours: 10 am to 8 pm (Mon), 10 am to 9 pm (Tue to Fri), 10 am to 10 pm (Sat and Sun)

Getting there: From Anguk Station (Line 3), take Exit 6 towards Insadong. Turn left on Insadong-gil, one block ahead. Walking about half a block, turn right at the small alley just before seeing Ssamziegil on your left. The café will be in the fourth building to your right.

Dabble in Korea’s artistic side at Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art

If you wander far enough off Insadong-gil, you’ll eventually stumble into the Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art. I’d recommend making it a deliberate stop rather than a happy accident.

Opened in 1983, the Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art showcases the work of local Korean artists and sculptors across five exhibition halls. Most of the exhibitions are free, which in Seoul (where admission fees can add up fast) feels like a small miracle.

What makes Kyung-in worth the detour isn’t just the art. The complex itself is worth a look.

It’s built around a stone-paved open courtyard with manicured bonsai-style trees, maehwa (plum) trees, bamboo shoots, and traditional hanok-style architecture. When I stumbled in, I spent far more time wandering around admiring the scenery than actually looking at the art exhibits.

Once you’ve poked around the galleries and courtyard, the on-site teahouse is worth a stop. (Whether it’s summer or winter, you can’t go wrong with herbal tea paired with their fruit ice cream.)

• Address: 11-4 Insadong 10-gil
• Opening Hours: 10 am to 6 pm daily

Getting there: From Anguk Station (Line 3), Exit 6, walk a block and turn left on Insadong-gil. Walk two blocks, turning left at Insadong 10-gil, the street after Ssamziegil. The museum entrance is a couple of buildings up on your left.

Go shopping at Ssamziegil

After spending time wandering the streets of Myeongdong and the malls of Gangnam, Ssamziegil was a bit of a surprise. This shopping complex is hard to miss while walking down Insadong-gil. Even if shopping isn’t your thing, I’d still say that Ssamziegil earns at least a wander for first-time visitors to Insadong.

Opened in 2004, Ssamziegil has become one of Insadong’s most recognizable landmarks. What I found most interesting when I spotted the complex was its unique architecture.

Instead of stairs, the four floors are connected by a continuous spiral ramp winding around an open central courtyard. The courtyard decorations change with the seasons, too.

I’ve seen photos of elaborate flower installations in spring and warm amber lighting in autumn. (It’s the kind of place that seems to photograph well, no matter what time of year you visit.)

The 70-plus shops inside Ssamziegil lean heavily toward handmade crafts and cultural goods. I’d keep an eye out specifically for hanji lamp shops. These lampshades are handcrafted from traditional Korean paper and cast a beautiful, soft glow.

The quality across the shops varies, though. Some of it is interesting, handcrafted work. Some of it is the kind of generic souvenir fodder you could find anywhere in Seoul. (I’d suggest taking your time to check alternatives before reaching for your wallet.)

Before you leave Ssamziegil, the rooftop Sky Garden on the fourth floor is worth the walk up for views over Insadong and the surrounding rooftops.

• Address: 44 Insadong-gil
• Opening Hours: 10:30 am to 8:30 pm daily

Getting there: Ssamziegil sits on the main drag of Insadong-gil. From Anguk Station (Line 3), use Exit 6 and walk straight along Yulgok-ro, then turn left onto Insadong-gil. Ssamziegil is about two blocks ahead on your left.

Witness the birth of modern Korea at Tapgol Park

Tapgol Park sits at the southern end of Insadong-gil. This park earns its place on this list of things to do in Insadong less for what it looks like today and more for what happened here over a century ago.

Opened in 1897 as Seoul’s first modern urban park, Tapgol Park is where Korean independence resisters publicly read the Declaration of Independence on March 1st, 1919. This was the event that set off the bloody days of the March 1st Movement against Japanese colonial rule.

Every year on March 1st, Tapgol Park still hosts a memorial service to remember the fallen. Walking through it knowing that history gives the place a weight that’s hard to shake.

The centerpiece is the Wongaksa Pagoda. Listed as National Treasure No. 2, this ten-level stone pagoda dates back to 1467 and is the only surviving remnant of the 15th-century Wongaksa Temple. The Palgakjeong Pavilion, visible nearby, has stood since 1902.

In day-to-day life, Tapgol Park is mostly a gathering spot for older Korean men playing chess, having animated conversations, and taking the occasional nap on a bench. I found the contrast oddly charming: A site of such historical significance that now just sorta… belongs to the neighborhood.

(Oh, and Squid Game fans might recognize the park, too. It’s the spot where Gong Yoo’s Salesman approaches homeless residents with his bread-or-lottery-card choice in Season 2.)

• Address: 99 Jong-ro
• Opening hours: 9 am to 5 pm daily

Getting there: From Jongno 3-ga Station (Lines 1, 3, and 5), take Exit 1 onto Jong-ro. It’s about a five-minute walk west to Tapgol Park.

Shop for music gear at Nagwon Musical Instrument Arcade

One of my biggest regrets in my Insadong wandering was never getting into the Nagwon Musical Instrument Arcade.

I’d spent so much time on my trips to Seoul searching for history, food, and architecture (heck, even going hiking) that I completely missed this gem sitting right under my nose.

Built in 1969 as Korea’s first residential and commercial complex, the building was constructed over a four-lane road (Samil-daero) at the edge of Insadong. “Nagwon” means paradise in Korean. (And for musicians, I can totally see how the name fits.)

By the 1980s, when a lifted night curfew sent live band culture in Seoul into overdrive, the Nagwon Musical Instrument Arcade transformed into the musicians’ nirvana it remains today.

The second and third floors of the building house over 300 shops selling everything from traditional Korean gayageum and haegeum to Fender, Gibson, and Ibanez guitars, brass instruments, percussion, and just about anything else. Instrument repair technicians are scattered throughout, too.

On the fourth floor is Seoul Art Cinema, a theater screening independent films, which makes this complex one of the more unexpected buildings in the neighborhood.

If you have any interest in music at all, don’t make the same mistake I did: Add the Nagwon Musical Instrument Arcade to your Insadong itinerary before you scroll another inch.

• Address: 428 Samil-daero
• Opening Hours: 10 am to 7:30 pm (closed Sundays)

Getting there: This one is (literally) unmissable. While walking south along Insadong-gil, turn left onto Insadong 4-gil or Insadong-gil to access the mega instrument mall. (Yes, you read that last line correctly. Street names in Seoul are super weird and confusing. I still don’t get it after several visits.)

Discover the world of tea at the Teastory (Beautiful Tea Museum)

For tea lovers visiting Insadong, Teastory (Beautiful Tea Museum) is yet another spot I’d add to your list of what to see & do. It’s tucked into a beautifully restored hanok just off the main drag. After a morning of wandering the streets (especially on a cool autumn day), I found it to be exactly the kind of place to collapse into for an hour.

One thing I should point out before you go: Teastory, despite its alternate name, is less of a museum and more of a serene teahouse with a small display of ceramic tea cups and Asian tea traditions on the side.

If you come here expecting a full tea museum experience, you might leave a little confused. On the other hand, if you visit for a calm hanok teahouse vibe with an exceptional tea list, you’ll leave very happy.

The tea selection runs to 130 varieties from Korea, China, Tibet, Japan, India, and Sri Lanka. Many of the Korean teas here are handcrafted by monks using dried herbs and plants. It gives them a depth you won’t find at your average teahouse.

I’d point first-timers toward the omija berry tea or the green tea. Paired with their green tea rice cakes, both are fantastic choices, even if you’re not a tea connoisseur.

(I’m a well-entrenched coffee guy, but these teas could conceivably convert me.)

There’s also a small shop at the back where you can pick up teas to take home. It’s worth a browse even if you don’t end up buying anything.

• Address: 19-11 Insadong-gil
• Opening Hours: 11:30 am to 8 pm daily

Getting there: From Jongno 3-ga Station (Lines 1, 3, and 5), use Exit 5 and walk west along Supyo-ro past Samil-daero through the Nagwon Musical Instrument Arcade, where it becomes Insadong-gil. Walk west, crossing (the “real”) Insadong-gil until the street becomes a smaller alleyway. The museum will be on your left, three buildings up.

Browse rare antique books at Tongmungwan

Tongmungwan might be the most quietly fascinating stop on this entire list of things to see in Insadong. (And one of the most overlooked for first-time visitors.)

Founded in 1934 during the Japanese colonial era, this is the oldest active bookstore in South Korea. The current owner, Lee Jong-woon, is the third generation of his family to run it. After Korean independence in 1945, the family renamed the shop Tongmungwan, a name meaning “a place where all books encounter.” It’s been designated a Seoul Future Heritage site.

(That tells you everything about how seriously Koreans take this little slice of literary paradise.)

The first thing you’ll notice about Tongmungwan is that the door is often closed. That’s not an accident. Lee keeps it that way deliberately. He only wants to invite in visitors who will treat the books with care.

Step inside and you’ll understand why. Nearly 20,000 antique books are stacked floor to ceiling, the oldest dating back to the Goryeo Kingdom (918 to 1392).

(And, yes, it’s got that oh-so-satisfying smell of old paper that tells bona fide book lovers that they’re somewhere special.)

Most of the collection focuses on Korean studies, humanities, and rare ancient texts that an ordinary bookstore would never carry. It’s not a browsing experience for everyone, but for a certain kind of traveler (i.e., fellow book lovers I’d likely get along very well with), it could be one of the most memorable stops in Insadong.

• Address: 55-1 Insadong-gil
• Opening Hours: 10:30 am to 9:30 pm daily

Getting there: From Anguk Station (Line 3), use Exit 6 and walk straight along Insadong-gil. Tongmungwan is about 200 meters ahead on your right.

Jogyesa Temple

Jogyesa Temple sits just west of Insadong-gil. Yes, it’s technically outside the neighborhood proper, but it’s a short five-minute walk. And after stumbling over here on my first visit to Insadong, while palace-hopping, I think it’s worth every step.

As the chief temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism, Jogyesa is the headquarters of the largest Buddhist denomination in Korea, with over 10 million followers. It was originally founded as Gakhwangsa Temple in 1395, then renamed Jogyesa in 1910, the very year Korea fell under Japanese colonial rule.

Buddhism had already endured 500 years of suppression under the Confucian Joseon Dynasty, during which monks were literally forbidden to enter Seoul. Gakhwangsa’s founding was a statement. The name change was another.

What struck me first when I stepped through the gate of Jogyesa Temple was the contrast. I could still hear the city humming away outside and see the modern buildings framing the background. But step inside on the right morning, and you might catch the Dharma drum and temple bell filling the courtyard with a sound that cuts through all the outside noise.

(It’s one of those unexpected moments that I seemed to find every time I spent a weekend exploring new places in Seoul.)

The courtyard features centuries-old white pine and zelkova trees, along with brightly colored flower beds and moss-covered statues. Throughout the year, the grounds get decorated with colorful lanterns that give the temple a more whimsical than serious feel.

(Although I visited Jogyesa Temple during the day, I could only imagine what these lanterns would look like lit up in the evening.)

The most spectacular time to visit is during the Lotus Lantern Festival, held in celebration of Buddha’s birthday each spring.

Admission to Jogyesa Temple is free. I’d suggest going early morning or late afternoon to catch the chanting if you can.

• Address: 55 Ujeongguk-ro
• Opening Hours: 4 am to 11 pm daily

Getting there: From Anguk Station (Line 3), Exit 6, walk straight along Yulgok-ro and turn left onto Ujeongguk-ro. Jogyesa Temple is about a 5-minute walk to your right.

Wander the streets of Ikseon-dong Hanok Village

Like Jogyesa Temple, Ikseon-dong Hanok Village isn’t technically part of Insadong. It sits just east of the neighborhood, closer to Jongno 3-ga Station than to Anguk Station, where most of the other main tourist attractions in Insadong lie. But this area is a short walk away, and it’s exactly the kind of place that’s worth building into any visit to Seoul’s most traditional neighborhood.

Unlike Bukchon Hanok Village, which is a residential area with noise restrictions and etiquette rules, Ikseon-dong is primarily commercial. The 1920s-era hanok buildings here have been converted into cafes, restaurants, boutiques, and bars. It’s a more relaxed wander as a result.

(There’s no need to keep your voice down or worry about disturbing residents here.)

The narrow alleyways are the main draw of Ikseon-dong Hanok Village. When I wandered around here on my second Insadong visit, every turn seemed to reveal another tucked-away cafe or restaurant.

I’d suggest coming to Ikseon-dong with no particular plan and seeing where it takes you. The evening atmosphere here is especially charming. The warm lighting against the traditional rooflines makes for one of the more photogenic spots I’ve seen in central Seoul.

• Address: Ikseon-dong
• Opening Hours: 10 am to 9 pm daily

Getting there: From Jongno 3-ga Station (Lines 1, 3, and 5), take Exit 4. Ikseon-dong is about a 3-minute walk north.

Learn about Joseon history at Unhyeongung Palace

Okay, okay, you caught me again: Unhyeongung Palace isn’t quite in Insadong proper either. But it’s so so close (literally, a block northeast) that I can’t help but include it here.

Unhyeongung Palace was the childhood home of Gojong, the last Joseon king and first emperor of Korea. He was born here, grew up here, and left at 12 to ascend to the throne. Its personal history gives Unhyeongung a different feel from Seoul’s grander palaces.

(It feels less like walking through the seat of dynastic power, and more like walking through someone’s home.)

Like everything else in Seoul’s royal history, Unhyeongung took a beating from the Japanese occupation and the Korean War. What you’ll see here today are reconstructions. But the grounds are peaceful and well-maintained

The yearly re-enactment of the royal wedding of Emperor Gojong and Empress Myeongseong draws crowds for good reason. Unsurprisingly, it’s become a popular spot for young Koreans to get married.

(Oh, and, by the way, Unhyeongung is free to visit.)

• Address: 464 Samil-daero
• Opening Hours: 9 am to 6:30 pm (closed Mondays)
• Entrance: Free

Getting there: This is an easy one. Exit 4 at Anguk Station (Line 3) spits you out directly onto the palace grounds.

Chow down on delicious Korean BBQ at 853

You didn’t think I’d leave you to explore Insadong without food recommendations, did you?

One thing I noticed on my first visit was that Insadong isn’t short on places to eat. But if I had to point a first-time visitor toward one spot for a proper sit-down meal, it’d be 853 Korean BBQ (16 Insadong 12-gil). This restaurant is tucked into a renovated hanok just off the main strip and specializes exclusively in pork: belly, shoulder, neck, and cheek, all from premium domestic Korean stock.

The staff at 853 grill the meat at your table, which takes the pressure off if you’re new to Korean BBQ. I’d go for the pork neck (hangjeongsal). It’s a slightly fattier cut with a richer flavor than the pork belly and one that most visitors overlook.

One thing worth knowing is that 853 closes between 2:30pm and 5 pm daily. (Don’t show up mid-afternoon expecting lunch.)

A few other solid restaurant options to add to your Insadong foodie bucket list include:

• Sinsa Dongindong Annyeong Insadong (49 Insadong-gil): Here’s another great spot in the area for Korean BBQ, galbi, and pajeon. The spicy braised short ribs are the signature dish here. It’s worth ordering if you can handle the heat.
• Insadong Sujebi (14-1 Insadong 8-gil): This back alley gem has been serving hand-torn noodle soup since 1993. The sujebi arrives in a clay pot with thick, chewy dough pieces floating in a clean, deeply savory broth. Order the haemul pajeon (seafood pancake) alongside it. Oh, and don’t let the unremarkable entrance put you off. The homemade kimchi alone is worth the detour.
• Jangsu Sky Beef (34-1 Insadong-gil): The splurge option. Premium 1++ grade Hanwoo beef, Korea’s finest native cattle, grilled at your table by trained staff. The tenderloin is the move if you’re going all in. Banchan arrives by robot, which is either charming or ridiculous depending on your mood.

The food scene in Insadong doesn’t end with restaurants, though. The neighborhood teems with some of the tastiest food I’ve eaten while visiting Seoul.

The street food in Insadong is more spread out than somewhere like Myeongdong. Whenever I’ve visited, I never found a single concentrated strip of vendors. Rather, the food stalls tend to be scattered along Insadong-gil and tucked into the side alleys branching off it.

It comes alive most on weekends, with the car-free street filling up with carts and vendors from 10 am.

I know that Korean food can be hit or miss for some (it was for me), but this first street food recommendation should be a hit for most first-timers.

As you walk the streets of Insadong, look out for hotteok. Insadong dishes out a delicious sweet version of this Korean pancake rather than the savory japchae-filled ones, like at bustling Namdaemun Market.

The hotteok here are filled with brown sugar, cinnamon, and crushed peanuts. As the soft dough fries, the ingredients caramelize into a hot, scrumptious stickiness that’s the perfect companion for a cool spring or autumn day.

Other local specialties here include:

• tteokbokki: It’s next to impossible to pass a block or two in Seoul without catching a sniff of these sweet & spicy Korean rice cakes on offer. In my experience, they can be a little hit-or-miss. (I prefer the spicier ones over the sweeter ones.)
• bungeoppang: These fish-shaped pastries are stuffed sweet red bean paste filling. They’re similar to the Chinese sweet bean pastries I tried in Shanghai and Taipei, but these ones crack open with a more satisfying crunch.
• yakgwa: These small honey cookies feature a dense, almost medicinal sweetness that’s unique to Korean traditional confectionery.

The one thing I’d specifically seek out in Insadong that you won’t find anywhere else is the twisted bread ice cream, consisting of a traditional Korean pastry called taraegwa wrapped around soft serve ice cream.

The taraegwa itself is light and crispy, with a faint sweetness from the honey and sesame that doesn’t overpower the soft serve melting into it from the inside. It’s the kind of thing you can demolish in about four bites and then immediately want another one.

How to get there

Getting to Insadong is a cinch. Take Line 3 on the Seoul metro to Anguk Station and use Exit 6. From there, walk straight along Yulgok-ro for about 100 meters and turn left onto Insadong-gil. You’ll know you’ve arrived when the street opens up and the antique shops and teahouses start appearing on both sides.

Jongno 3-ga Station (Lines 1, 3, and 5) is another option if you’re coming from a different part of the city. Exit 5 puts you at the southern end of the neighborhood near Tapgol Park.