When I first visited Tokyo over a decade ago, I knew my first stop had to be Shinjuku. The image I had in my head of modern Japan—neon-lit streets, towering skyscrapers, and hidden temples & shrines—was completely validated as I explored all the fun things to do in Shinjuku, Tokyo’s most exciting neighborhood.
In this quick & easy guide, I’ll walk you through all my favorite places to visit in Shinjuku, from the 1960s throwback Golden Gai to the neon-washed streets to Kabikicho to the serenity of Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden…
What to see & do in Shinjuku
Step back into the Tokyo of the fifties in Golden Gai
Following the Second World War, most of Tokyo was levelled in the name of development, and only a very small section survived. Golden Gai, a collection of narrow alleys, contains around two hundred pubs preserved from the sixties era and is one of the top points of interest in Shinjuku.
Walking through Golden Gai, I wandered past countless hole-in-the-wall bars and restaurants, most seating only between five and thirty patrons. Especially if it’s your first time in Tokyo, visiting this atmospheric area is an absolute must!
Each bar seemed to have its own defined —and often quirky—style and culture, including karaoke, specialty drinks, and extraordinary decor. Most bars charge seating costs, and, as I discovered firsthand, some will only host Japanese customers.
Look out for English price lists and menus on the walls outside the bars; it’ll give a clue as to whether foreigners are welcome or not.
Visit Shinjuku Pit Inn for the love of jazz
If you’re a lover of jazz, Shinjuku Pit Inn is one of the must-do activities in Shinjuku. Japan has a vibrant jazz music scene, and Pit Inn is one of the most interesting places to go in Tokyo to see accomplished jazz musicians strut their stuff.
The bar is more than fifty years old and carries an old Jazz club ambience, accentuated by posters and dimmed lights. Most visitors are serious jazz fans, so the show won’t be interrupted by idle chit-chat.
There’s a show every night at eight, and the musicians will entertain you until about ten thirty. You’ll pay an entrance fee of three thousand yen, but it includes your first drink.
Check the website (in English) to see who’s playing.
Take a walk through Kabukicho
Kabukicho, also known as the “Sleepless Town,” is the largest red-light district in Japan. Walled by neon signs that reach into the night sky, this pedestrian area teems with people and is among the most interesting things to see in Shinjuku.
On my first trip to Tokyo, I stayed just a few blocks from Kabukicho. I had a chance to wander around here several times, day and night. Of course, the neighborhood truly shines in the evening with its neon on full blast and throngs of people descending upon its entertainment options.
Overlooked by a giant Godzilla head, Kabukicho is, like the monster itself, noisy and edgy. The area is filled with cinemas, shops (such as the massive 24-hour Don Quijote superstore), karaoke bars (like the famous Studio Himawari) and restaurants, and, of course, slightly less-than-family-friendly massage parlours, nightclubs, and love hotels.
Although it’s not my scene, I was told by locals that host and hostess clubs often charge a fee for the table. Be prepared to spend before you’ve even had a drink or a bite to eat!
I was also warned by my hotel concierge that both men and women risk being propositioned in Kabukicho. Take a friend if you can. Also, take precautions while in the area, as some dodgy types are all too ready to quickly relieve you of your money.
(Although I had no problems myself and “felt safe,” I heard enough warnings to heed caution and be aware of my surroundings.)
In my experience, most places in Kabukicho don’t accept credit cards; carry cash as needed.
Visit Taiso-ji Temple, a small Buddhist temple full of little surprises
Built in 1596, the Buddhist Taisoji Temple is close to Shinjuku Station. I stumbled upon this serene little temple, tucked away from many of the top tourist attractions in Shinjuku, on my first trip to Tokyo, and I think it’s well worth a quick visit.
Taiso-ji overlooks a large copper statue of Jizo Monk Shogen. This tranquil seated statue is frequently mistaken for an image of Buddha.
Inside the temple are statues of Enma Daiō, the ruler of hell. He has large pincers for removing the tongues of liars. (Dark, I know.) Alongside Enma stands the statue of a woman who removes the clothes of those passing over the river to hell. It’s said that your clothes carry the weight of your sin.
Wandering around the grounds, I found it full of little marvels, including small shrines where people make wishes and offerings of thanks.
Pound back all the sake you can drink at the Sake Market Shinjuku
With more than one hundred sakes available, Sake Market Shinjuku offers a self-pour service where you can try as many different types of sake, plum wine, shochu, and more. Become familiar with the many tastes and fragrances available.
You’ll pay ¥3,600 for the night (from 18:00 to 23:00), and you can bring your own food. It has a great atmosphere, with the guests milling around and getting to know one another.
You’re bound to leave with at least one new friend by the end of the night!
Take a walk down memory lane at Omoide Yokocho
Once occupied by street vendors and black-market traders, Omoide Yokocho, also known as “Piss Alley” or “Memory Lane,” is now home to dozens of micro restaurants seating just five to ten diners and serving delicious street food.
After visiting this atmospheric area on my first trip to Tokyo, I could easily see why it sits near the top of many lists of what to do in Shinjuku. I visited it after checking out the nearby Golden Gai. Although it’s got a similar feel, I found Omoide Yokocho a little cozier and a little more colorful.
There’s a wide variety here: Some of the restaurants allow smoking, some charge a cover charge, and some aren’t too welcoming to foreigners. I’d recommend walking around to decide where to eat before you sit down.
The area is authentic old Tokyo, with narrow alleys that are always teeming with people. You’ll have no problem delighting in great food, sake, and ice-cold beers around Omoide Yokocho. Following the delicious smells should lead you to the tastiest grill.
Although I enjoyed stopping in for a bit during the day, I recommend visiting Omoide Yokocho at night to make the most of the atmosphere.
See warrior history on show at the Samurai Museum (CLOSED)
For history buffs, the exciting exhibition of armour and weapons at the Samurai Museum is one of the most interesting places to go in Shinjuku. Entrance costs ¥1,900, and if you time your visit carefully, you can watch the Samurai show as well.
The tour through the Samurai Museum is led by a knowledgeable English-speaking guide, who will lead you through the history of the Samurai warriors up until the death of the last one. After your tour, you’ll be given the chance to dress up in period clothing and try out replicas of the weapons.
NOTE: The Samurai Museum in Shinjuku appears to be permanently closed. If you still want to get your samurai fix, check out the Samurai Ninja Museum in Asakusa instead.
Watch a cabaret show in lights at Robot Restaurant (CLOSED)
Robot Restaurant features a cabaret show of flashing lights and colourfully dressed dancers joined on stage by dinosaurs, pandas, and, of course, enormous robots. This loud and colourful show is expensive, but it’s also good fun and tops many lists of what to see in Shinjuku.
There are afternoon shows where children are welcome, but bear in mind the restaurant’s location: The Robot Restaurant is situated in the red-light district of Kabukicho.
Plan to arrive early. There’s a restaurant and refreshment area where you can eat and drink before the show. Your first drink is included in the cover charge.
NOTE: The original Robot Restaurant is permanently closed, but has recently reopened in the same building as the Samurai Restaurant. Jury’s out as to whether this new show captures the spirit of the original.
Take a break from the crowded streets at Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden
The Japanese love their gardens, and wherever I traveled in the country, it wasn’t hard to find beautifully manicured and wild, free gardens. Crowded Shinjuku is no exception.
For five hundred yen, you can escape the chaos and enjoy the serenity of Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, one of the largest parks in Tokyo and one of the coolest places to see in Shinjuku. I absolutely love popping into this garden whenever I’m visiting the neighborhood for a much-needed break from the bustle just outside the gates.
Follow rambling paths that wander through expansive lawns and orchards of cherry trees. Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden features a Japanese landscape garden with ponds, bridges, and islands surrounded by pavilions and cropped shrubs and trees. There’s also an English landscape garden, a formal French garden, a greenhouse, an art gallery, and restaurants.
For an extra special visit to Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, I recommend visiting during Tokyo’s cherry blossom season, when the park is at its absolute finest.
Find a corner of tranquillity in the Shinto Hanazono Jinja (Shrine)
If you look carefully off Yasukuni Dori Avenue, you can find a beautiful Shinto shrine, Hanazono Jinja. It’s an island of tranquillity in the midst of the Tokyo crowds. Set amongst the tall buildings of the inner city, Hanazono Shrine is easy to miss in the hustle and bustle.
Hanazono means flower garden, and the shrine formed part of the Imperial Gardens when it was built in the 17th century. These days, it’s most popular among local businessmen to pray to the deity for financial success.
On Sunday, weather permitting, you can shop at the very traditional flea market held on its grounds. If you time your visit to Hanazono Shrine carefully, you may attend one of the many colourful festivals celebrated here.
Visit the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building for a 360-degree view over the city
Whenever I’m traveling, I always love seeing cities from above. So, when I was in Shinjuku, naturally, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building was high on my bucket list. With its free observation deck, the building is one of the most popular spots in Tokyo for tourists to gaze out at the city center.
From this vantage point, you’ll get 360-degree views of Tokyo. Locals told me that on a good day, you can even see as far as Mount Fuji.
(As it was cloudy during my visit, I wasn’t so lucky!)
The observation decks at the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building are open until eleven at night. Admission is free.
Find three floors of international and Japanese restaurants at Takashimaya Times Square
Like any area in Tokyo, one of the most memorable things to do in Shinjuku is eating delicious food. If you’re looking for great cuisine, you’re spoiled for choice in Takashimaya Times Square. The complex has three floors dedicated to food, offering a huge array of restaurants, both international and Japanese.
Whatever your preference for Asian and Japanese cuisine, you’ll find it here. From dim sum on the 12th floor to sukiyaki on the 14th, your taste buds will thank you for letting them explore here.
When you’re done with the food, head elsewhere in Takashimaya Times Square to wander through the shops and browse the world’s top fashion brands.
Where to stay
If you’ve got the yen for it, I think Shinjuku is among the coolest areas to stay in Tokyo. Hotels in Shinjuku run a little more expensive than in other districts like Minato or Taito.
For many travellers, however, it’s worth every penny to spend your nights here embracing Tokyo’s wilder side. Here are a few our favorite spots to stay in Shinjuku…
Super Hotel Shinjuku Kabukicho
This central yet surprisingly budget-friendly hotel is located in the lively entertainment district of Kabukicho. Rooms are compact yet comfortable, and we think the on-site onsen is a nice touch, especially at this price point.
Hotel Gracery Shinjuku
This delightful 4-star hotel offers great value rooms in the heart of Shinjuku. Our favorite part about this hotel? Obviously, the infamous Godzilla Head statue on its terrace! JR Shinjuku Station is just 5 minutes away on foot.
Park Hyatt Tokyo
Hands down one of the best luxury hotels in Tokyo. You might recognize this 5-star’s stunning good looks from the Woody Allen flick Lost in Translation. Splurge to affirm your star status and catch the swoon-worthy views from the rooms, all above the 42nd floor.
Final recommendations
Still debating what to do in Shinjuku? Here are a few last-minute suggestions:
- Want to see Tokyo from above? Get in line to see one of the city’s best panoramas from the free observation decks at the Tokyo Metropolitan Building. Head there on a clear day to spot Mount Fuji in the distance.
- Interested in the Tokyo of the past? The traditional alleyways of Golden Gai and scrappy Omoide Yokocho peek back to the Tokyo of yesteryear. Plop yourself down at one of the street-side restaurants to enjoy a little biiru and yakitori among an air of old Tokyo.
- Need to escape the buzz of Tokyo? Shinjuku Gyoen is one of the best spots we’ve found in the city for clearing your head. Walk among beautiful gardens and pavilions to get some respite from the ever-present chaos of Shinjuku.
More attractions to explore
- Seiji Togo Memorial Sompo Japan Nipponkoa Museum of Art: A small museum on the 42nd floor of the Sompo Japan Nipponkoa Headquarters Building, originally dedicated to the work of Japanese painter Seiji Togo. The museum now also features works of European masters like Gauguin, Cezanne, and Van Gogh.
- Tokyo Opera City: A massive complex containing over 60 shops, two museums, and six theatres, including the Opera City Concert Hall. The building also hosts the 53rd-floor, 230-metre-high Sky Restaurant.
- Tokyo Fire Museum: A free museum dedicated to the history of fire-fighting in Tokyo, dating back to the Edo Period. Although we’ll admit it sounds rather boring, the museum is quite interactive and a ton of fun for kids and families.
- 8bit cafe: As eighties kids, we love this cool theme café that springs forth the legacy of ’80s video games for a sweet hit of nostalgia.
- Shin-Okubo: Tokyo’s bustling Korea Town, centered around Shin-Okubo Station. If you’ve got a craving for Korean food or need a little K-pop in your life, we’d recommend tagging this interesting area onto your Shinjuku itinerary.
- Shinjuku Copa Bowl: A lively and colourful late-night bowling alley located just five minutes from JR Shinjuku Station.
- Meiji Jingu Baseball Stadium: A stadium within Meiji Shrine that’s home to the Tokyo Yakult Swallows, one of the city’s favourite teams, playing one of Japan’s favourite sports. Catch a game to get a glimpse of the passion!
- Shinjuku Chuo Park: A relaxing green space that we think is yet another perfect for escaping the craziest bustle of the Shinjuku ward.
