On my trip to Shanghai, no area surprised me more than Tianzifang. Located in the French Concession, this small artsy enclave is famous for its distinctive red-brick shikumen. This architectural style, hearkening to 1920s Shanghai, was unlike anything I’d seen in the city up to that point.
As I walked through Tianzifang’s narrow alleyways and courtyards, I couldn’t help but duck into its boutiques, souvenir shops, and art galleries. (Likely between licks of ice cream or other street food treats.)
No matter how long you have in the city, Tianzifang is the perfect place to relax, shop, and enjoy the laid-back spirit of creative Shanghai. Here’s what I’d look to check out on a first visit…
Getting to know Tianzifang
Tianzifang was once a residential and industrial area set in the trendy French Concession. Though the locals know it as SOHO (ya, apparently every city needs one of these now), the area is named for one of China’s oldest known artists, Tian Zifang, a figure from the Warring States period (475-221 BC).
The name was chosen by the painter Huang Yongyu, who swapped one character to make “fang” mean “quarter” or “lane” rather than “direction,” which fit the neighborhood better.
(The stone tablet bearing the name went up at the Lane 210 entrance in 2002.)
The transformation began in 1998, when one of China’s most famous artists, Chen Yifei, moved into two derelict factories and set up his studios. Many other artists followed, and Tianzifang slowly became the artsy center of Shanghai.
The reason Tianzifang is so popular with tourists, though, is the shikumen flanking its streets.
Literally meaning “stone warehouse gate,” shikumen are houses unique to Shanghai that blend elements of both Western and Eastern architecture. They’re characterized by the stone reinforcements surrounding a large wooden door.
Tianzifang boasts more than 20 different types of shikumen.
Many of the shikumen in Tianzifang have been beautifully restored and now house shops, restaurants, and bars. As I walked among them, I also found a ton of art galleries, museums, and antique and craft shops.
Although it’s a little overpriced compared to other areas I visited in Shanghai (much like neighboring Xintiandi), the setting of Tianzifang makes it an interesting place to shop for souvenirs and Chinese crafts.
(Though I should warn you that the abundance of kitsch gift shops in Tianzifang might get to be a little much for tourists looking for a more “authentic” experience in China’s second-biggest city.)
What to see & do
After spending time in Tianzifang on my Shanghai trip, I think the best way to experience the area is to meander through the jumble of little lanes that crisscross the area.
Keep an eye out for the craft shops and art studios jostling for space in the busy streets. You can watch the artists at work, then buy a small masterpiece to take home.
Take the opportunity to pay a visit to the Chen Yifei Art Studio (210 Taikang Rd) on Lane 210 to view the late artist’s artwork. When I ducked in, I spotted a lot of interesting items, from handcrafted tea sets to jewelry.
Even better, in my opinion, is to end a day in Shanghai by stopping and sampling the many tasty Chinese and international cuisines on offer in the stalls, pubs, and restaurants of Tianzifang.
To take a break from Shanghainese cuisine, I’d suggest Duo Jie La Mu Cang Ba (map). This restaurant feels like a Himalayan escape, serving Tibetan food (and a surprising amount of beer), in a setting full of colorful meditation cushions, prayer flags, and lanterns.
For down-to-earth local favorites, stop in at Cafe Dan (map). Grab a bowl of spicy dan-dan noodles or a cup of kopi luwak coffee (yes, that famous cat poop coffee) paired with cheesecake.
If it’s not too busy, the 2nd floor at Cafe Dan, reached via an awkwardly tight staircase, is a great spot to relax amid the bustle of Tianzifang. The space is surrounded by bamboo stalks and plants, giving it a cozy, garden-like feel.
Or, if visiting Tianzifang at night, I’d slide into Shadow & Light (map) to enjoy creative craft cocktails and hookah in a dimly-lit space that feels more like a laid-back pub than a cocktail lounge.
Useful tips for your visit
- There are three lanes that run through Tianzifang from north to south: 210, 248, and 274. I saw plenty of location maps while wandering around the area, but it’s still easy to get lost in the tangle of interconnecting lanes. (And that was my favorite part of exploring here!)
- I’d recommend visiting Tianzifang during the week. The lanes here get pretty congested on weekends.
- Most shops and restaurants close around 10 pm. The pubs, bars, and cocktail lounges, however, tend to stay open a little later.
- The prices at many shops and galleries around Tianzifang are negotiable. This is a great chance to practice your bargaining skills!
How to get there
The easiest way to get to Tianzifang with Shanghai’s public transportation system is to take the metro line 9 to the Dapuqiao Station. Exit 1 will take you to your destination.
There are also four buses that ply the route: 17, 24, 304, and 864.
(I would point most foreign visitors to the metro over the bus. In my experience, buses are always far more complicated than trains in places like China where the language barrier is sizeable.)
