My first trip to Shanghai was on a multi-day layover en route to Hong Kong. I’d been wanting to visit China’s second-biggest for years. So when the country introduced its new visa-free transit rules, I knew it was my chance to see Shanghai without all the usual hassles.
(All while saving a ton of dough on my flights to HK, I might add.)
Many East Asian itineraries skip Shanghai. Sure, it doesn’t have the ancient palaces of Beijing or the temples of Kyoto. After visiting, though, I’d argue that its lack of authentic historical sites is the wrong reason to leave it out.
With its leafy streets and European-style architecture, the Former French Concession is unlike any area I walked through in Asia. Soaking up the Pudong skyline at night from The Bund is one of the better city views I’ve seen anywhere in the world. And Shanghai’s food, from xiaolongbao to hong shao rou, was some of the tastiest I’ve eaten while roaming around the continent.
Here’s everything I’d tell travelers before planning a first visit to Shanghai…
When to visit Shanghai
Unlike other parts of East Asia, Shanghai experiences a more temperate climate with vaster seasonal shifts than first-time visitors might expect.
Summers are hot & humid, while winters are cool & dry. The spring and fall seasons fall somewhere in between.
In my opinion, the best time to go to Shanghai is in the autumn months of October and November. When I visited Shanghai in the fall, daytime temperatures were still pleasantly mild to warm without the extreme heat and rains of the summer.
(I even got to experience a couple of days without Shanghai’s infamous smoggy haze clogging up my views.)
While planning the trip here, I noticed better availability and lower prices for accommodations in these off-season months, too.
(The one exception I’d note is the first week of October, in which a Chinese public holiday falls).
After visiting other nearby destinations in East Asia like Taipei and Tokyo in summer, this is one season I would avoid in Shanghai. In summer, much of the continent is hot, muggy, and rainy, with temperatures often soaring to 35ºC.
(Coincidentally, summer is also tourist high season, which, especially in densely populated China, I’d actively try to avoid.)
How long should I spend in Shanghai?
I’d recommend at least three days in Shanghai for a first visit. My own trip was a 144-hour visa-free layover. And I ran out of time before I ran out of things to do.
Three days will let you explore The Bund, Lujiazui, the Former French Concession, and Old City without feeling completely rushed. A fourth day opens up the option of a day trip to Suzhou or, even easier, Qibao Ancient Town, both of which I’d say are worth pulling yourself out of the city for.
If you’re passing through on a time-crunched layover, Shanghai is one of the better cities I’ve visited in East Asia to make the most of a short stop. The metro is fast, the main sights are concentrated, and first-timers can cover a lot of ground quickly.
Here’s a look at some itineraries to help you plan your time…
What to do in Shanghai
Unlike other Chinese cities like Beijing or Xian, Shanghai isn’t as well-known for wearing its ancient history on its sleeve. That’s not to say that there aren’t plenty of fun things to do & see in the city!
The obvious starting point I’d point first-time visitors toward is The Bund. I walked it on my first morning in Shanghai before the tour groups arrived. Admiring the colonial architecture along the waterfront before the crowds roll in is worth the early alarm.
The real draw at The Bund is the view across the Huangpu River toward the Lujiazui skyline in Pudong. It’s one of those city panoramas that photos don’t fully prepare you for, particularly at night when the towers across the river are all lit up in bright neon colors.
(In case it’s not obvious, I’d highly recommend returning to The Bund at night. It’ll be one of the wmost memorable simple experiences.)
Getting up into that Pudong skyline is a separate experience worth doing. Shanghai Tower is the headline option at 632 meters, with the highest observatory in the world on the 118th floor.
The Shanghai World Financial Center next door was where I ended up on my visit. Walking the glass floor section on the 100th floor is an experience that’ll stick with me for life.
The Former French Concession was the part of Shanghai I least expected. Walking into it from the city center felt like a gear change, with its tree-lined streets, shikumen architecture, and outdoor cafes moving at a snail’s pace compared to the rest of the city.
Xintiandi is the polished, upscale end of the French Concession, featuring a ton of hip cafes, restaurants, and bars. Tianzifang, a few blocks south, is the grittier alternative, and the one I’d prioritize if I only had an afternoon.
Old City is worth a walk, even if it feels heavily reconstructed. Yuyuan Garden at the center is the exception. The garden dates back to the Ming Dynasty and is one of the most beautiful spots I visited in Shanghai’s busy city center. (Even if a little busy.)
Here’s a closer look at what I’d plan to see in Shanghai on a first visit…
What to eat in Shanghai
Shanghai is a foodie city through and through. And I say that as someone coming in with already high expectations after eating my way through Seoul, Taipei, and Hong Kong.
Shanghai’s food scene is famous for its dumplings. And the two varieties I think are worth going out of your way for are xiaolongbao and shengjianbao. I tried both on Huanghe Road, which is where I’d send any first-time visitor looking to eat well without overthinking it.
Jia Jia Tang Bao (90 Huanghe Rd) is my xiaolongbao reference point. The pork-and-crab version was the best I ate on the entire trip. The line moves, but get there early anyway.
Yang’s Fried Dumplings (178 Ningbo Rd) on nearby Ningbo Road is the answer for shengjianbao. It’s a dumpling similar to xiaolongbao, but pan-fried rather than steamed. Shengjianbao are crispier, heavier, and they’re worth trying back-to-back with Jia Jia Tang Bao. (If your stomach allows it.)
For something with more heat, Gaga Chongqing Spicy Noodles (82 Huanghe Rd) does a broth that’s aggressively red and genuinely spicy. I showed up nursing a head cold on my last day in Shanghai and left feeling considerably better about life.
Hairy crab is the other Shanghai dish I’d add to my bucket list if I were a seafood lover. The preparation is deliberately simple, with the crab’s freshness doing all the work. Order it steamed and dip it in dark vinegar for the full experience.
You can’t go wrong either with hong shao rou, a caramelized pork belly braised in sugar, Shaoxing wine, and soy sauce. It’s rich, sweet, and one of the more distinctly Shanghainese things you’ll eat on the trip.
Here’s what I’d look to eat on a first trip to Shanghai…
Where to stay in Shanghai
Choosing where to stay in Shanghai isn’t as complicated as it sounds for a first visit. I’d stick to the central areas around Huangpu District, where most of what you’ll want to see is within walking distance or a quick metro ride away.
The Bund is the most tourist-heavy option, but I’ve found hotels at every price point here. (And the location is hard to argue with.)
Nanjing Road and People’s Square sit a little further into the city center. I’d say they’re a better pick for first-time visitors wanting easier access to Shanghai’s retail and food scene.
Old City has a smaller selection of hotels than the other central neighborhoods. If Shanghai’s historical side is the priority and the budget isn’t too tight, I think it’s another solid base.
The Former French Concession is where I’d put visitors who want more character and don’t mind being a little further from the typical tourist sites.
The hip district of Xintiandi anchors the French Concession’s social scene and makes it one of the more interesting places to base yourself in the city, with its interesting courtyards and alleys hiding laid-back hip restaurants, cafes, and bars.
Here’s where I’d look for hotels in Shanghai…
Transportation in Shanghai
Getting there
By air
Shanghai is served by two airports, Shanghai Pudong International Airport (PVG) and Shanghai Hongqiao International Airport (SHA).
Most flights from international destinations arrive at PVG, although some routed through other Chinese cities may arrive at Hongqiao.
Major airlines flying into Shanghai include Air China, China Eastern Airlines, and China Southern Airlines.
By train
As one of the most important economic hubs in China, Shanghai is a keystone in the country’s high-speed rail system.
The shortest travel times to Shanghai from other destinations in China include Beijing (4h24m), Guangzhou (6h51m), Hangzhou (45m), Suzhou (22m), and X’ian (5h39m).
Traveling by train is also the easiest way to tackle some of my favorite day trips from Shanghai.
Getting around
By metro
With the fantastic metro system, getting around Shanghai is an absolute cinch. Most of the top tourist sites are located within a quick walking distance of a major metro station.
I used the metro almost exclusively while visiting Shanghai, and had no problems finding my way around the city, even without speaking or understanding a lick of Mandarin.
To make your journeys as easy as possible, I’d recommend getting a reloadable Shanghai Public Transportation Card.
If you’re planning to travel extensively by metro on your trip to Shanghai, a 1-day or 3-day pass might be an even better option. They cost just 18 yuan and 45 yuan, respectively.
For those coming into the city from the airport on a time crunch, the Maglev & Metro Pass is another great alternative. It covers two one-way maglev trips to and from the airport, plus a 24-hour metro pass for 85 yuan.
What to know before going
Visa
Most Western visitors can enter Shanghai visa-free for up to 144 hours under China’s transit visa exemption. This applies only if you’re transiting through Shanghai to a third country. (Hong Kong counts here, surprisingly.) Check your specific country’s eligibility before you go.
If your trip doesn’t qualify for visa-free transit, you’ll need to apply for a regular Chinese tourist visa to visit Shanghai. Check the local embassy/consulate in your home country for details on how to apply for one and what’s required.
Cash
China runs almost entirely on WeChat Pay and Alipay, which locals use for everything from restaurants to street food. Both now allow foreign visitors to link international credit cards, which I’d set up before arriving.
Most major hotels, restaurants, and tourist sites in Shanghai also accept foreign cards like Visa and Mastercard directly. For traditional markets and smaller local spots, I’d still carry some yuan.
Scams
One of the things that shocked me most about Shanghai after traveling elsewhere in East Asia without incident was how it’s notorious for petty scams targeting Western tourists.
I got burnt by Shanghai’s infamous “tea room” scam, where a charming local strikes up a conversation and invites the unsuspecting foreigner to a traditional tea ceremony.
In the end, I was left holding an insanely overpriced bill for a couple of thimble-sized servings of “premium” tea. (And the humbling realization that even experienced travelers can drop the ball.)
Commiserating with a fellow tourist later that day, I embarassingly learned it’s a common rookie mistake here. He fell for a similar scam earlier that week, getting corralled at a hardly-swanky-enough bar with a very hefty champagne bill with an equally hefty bouncer blocking the exit until you pay.
(Apparently my $75 tea sampler was me getting off relatively easy.)
Needless to say, I wouldn’t trust any seemingly polite random invitation from a random stranger while walking around Shanghai, particularly in the Old City around Yuyuan Garden.
Language
Mandarin is the primary language. English is limited outside of hotels and tourist areas. Download a translation app before you arrive.
Metro card
Pick up a Shanghai Public Transportation Card on arrival. It works on the metro, buses, and some taxis, and removes a lot of friction from getting around the city.
