My first trip to Hong Kong was a 36-hour layover en route to Jakarta. Up until then, I’d heard mixed reviews from fellow travelers who either loved the Chinese quasi-city-state or felt overwhelmed by its chaos and let it sour the experience.
On that first visit, I fell into the former. I couldn’t get enough of Hong Kong, and I couldn’t wait to return to explore more.
Fast-forward almost 10 years to when I finally made my eagerly awaited return to Hong Kong, and I started to see what the others may have been complaining about. The busy streets of Kowloon felt less inviting than on my first round, tipping from “exciting” to “get-me-TF-outta-here.”
Fortunately, I’d banked on spending a week in Hong Kong this time around. On the latter half of the trip, staying in (slightly) less chaotic Central instead of off-the-rocker Kowloon, I quickly started to feel the magic once again.
What I learned between that first short layover and week-long stay is that Hong Kong rewards visitors who get past its first impressions.
Dodging hawkers along Nathan Road or crowds of tourists in the Temple Street Night Market might not appeal to all travelers. But the version of Hong Kong I rekindled my affection for—from hiking up Victoria Peak without the Peak Tram crowds to seeing the Big Buddha and the South China Sea come into view on the Ngong Ping 360 cable car—isn’t so hard to fall for.
Whether you’re passing through on a layover or planning to stick around for a few days, here’s everything you need to know about planning your first trip to Hong Kong…
When to visit Hong Kong
The best times to visit Hong Kong are spring and fall, specifically April and then October through November. Both seasons are drier and more comfortable than the alternatives, but I’d lean toward October and November if I had to choose.
Spring in April sits in a sweet spot. Temperatures hover in the mid-20s, and the rainfall is lower than in May. In April, Hong Kong also starts to finally come back to life from its cooler winter months.
October and November are even drier. As autumn rolls in, the heat backs off enough that walking around Kowloon or hiking up to Victoria Peak doesn’t feel like a cruel punishment. This is the window I’d target for a first visit.
I’d avoid visiting Hong Kong in summer (June to August). Hong Kong in July is hot, sticky, and prone to heavy rain. Typhoon season runs through September, which can throw a wrench into any outdoor plans.
Although I’ve never visited Hong Kong in summer, I’ve been to enough destinations in East Asia (like Taiwan and Japan) during the hotter months to say it’s not worth it if you have flexibility for your travel plans.
In these months, it’s near impossible to get through a day or two without getting caught in a thunderstorm or otherwise needing to escape the midday heat in air-conditioned museums, cafes, and shopping malls.
Winter in Hong Kong is mild by most standards but noticeably cooler, particularly in January and February. It’s not unpleasant, and the tourist crowds thin out considerably.
If budget is the priority and comfort is negotiable, winter is actually a reasonable option.
How many days do I need in Hong Kong?
I’d recommend at least three days for a first visit to Hong Kong. It’s enough time to hit Victoria Peak, Kowloon, Lantau Island, and one or two neighborhoods on Hong Kong Island without feeling completely strung out.
Four or five days is when Hong Kong really opens up, though. The outer islands, the hiking trails, the night markets, the restaurant scene: these are the things that I think separate a good trip from a great one. And it takes time to get to all of them.
If you’re passing through on a layover, even 24 hours is enough to get a taste. The MTR is fast, the food is everywhere, and Hong Kong is surprisingly compact once you’re inside it.
Here are some sightseeing itineraries to help you get you started…
What to do in Hong Kong
Hong Kong has a short list of things that belong on every first visit, and a much longer list of things most visitors never get to. I’d prioritize both.
Victoria Peak is the obvious starting point. The views over Victoria Harbour and the skyline are some of the finest I’ve seen in any city.
The Peak Tram is the classic way up to the top of Victoria Peak, but the lines can stretch over an hour during peak hours. If patience isn’t your strong suit, I’d lean towards taking one of the hiking trails up.
(It’s a better experience anyway, in my opinion.)
On Lantau Island, the Tian Tan Buddha (the Big Buddha) is a landmark that earns its reputation up close. Standing underneath this enormous 34-meter-high Buddha statue was one of my favorite experiences from my second trip to Hong Kong.
The Ngong Ping 360 cable car ride out to Lantau Island is half the experience. As I rode over to Lantau Island, I couldn’t get enough of the views of the Big Buddha ahead and the South China Sea to the right.
The Po Lin Monastery, sitting next to the Big Buddha, is also worth spending time at before the tour groups arrive.
When I stepped into Po Lin Monastery for the first time, I instantly felt a weight lift off my shoulders. Even with the crowds gathering at the entrance, its peacefulness is palpable, as you watch monks meditate and pray in its main hall.
Tai O is the Lantau Island stop that many first-time visitors miss. And that’s exactly why I think it belongs on your itinerary.
This small fishing village on the western tip of the island feels like a completely different world from Kowloon. The traditional stilt houses over the water and the slower pace, paired with a Cantonese seafood snack, make Tai O one of the more memorable afternoons I spent in Hong Kong.
Temple Street Night Market in Kowloon is worth a visit, but I’d definitely go for the food, not the souvenirs. The open-air vendors tucked behind the clothing stalls are where the real action is.
For a break from the city, the Dragon’s Back Trail on Hong Kong Island is one of the best hikes in Asia that most tourists never attempt.
The views from the ridge over the South China Sea are stunning. I’d set aside a full morning for it and finish with a cold craft beer on Big Wave Bay.
Here’s what I’d plan to see & do while in Hong Kong…
What to eat in Hong Kong
Hong Kong is one of the world’s great food cities. After visiting several of them over the last two decades—including Seoul, Singapore, and Shanghai—I don’t think it’s a controversial claim.
Cantonese cuisine is the foundation, but the influences run deep from Shanghainese to Japanese to British. As I walked around the city, I saw plenty of international options too, including Korean, Filipino, Malaysian, Italian, and even Mexican.
If I were a first-time visitor looking for an intro to Hong Kong’s culinary scene, dim sum is where I’d start. Tim Ho Wan is the most accessible entry point for first-timers, with Michelin-starred quality at street-food prices.
If the budget allows, Yan Toh Heen at the InterContinental is a different experience entirely.
After finally getting to try it following my Dragon’s Back hike, wonton noodle soup is a dish I will always come back to. Mak’s Noodle on Wellington Street in Central is the version I measure all others against. It’s got thin, springy noodles, plump and juicy shrimp wontons, and a clean broth that’s deceptively simple.
Char siu is worth seeking out at a proper roast meat shop rather than a tourist-facing restaurant. Joy Hing in Wan Chai is the classic reference point.
Here’s what I’d go out of my way to eat on my first trip to Hong Kong…
Where to stay in Hong Kong
Although Hong Kong is nowhere near as spread out as other East Asian cities like Tokyo or Seoul, choosing where to stay is not necessarily easy either.
While planning both my trips to HK, I found a massive selection of varying quality here, running between some of the dingiest budget accommodations I’ve stayed at anywhere to some of the finest 5-star hotels I’ve ever laid my eyes upon.
Tsim Sha Tsui is where I’d put first-time visitors. It’s at the tip of Kowloon, directly across the harbor from Hong Kong Island.
Both by foot and with MTR access, it’s easy to get anywhere quickly from Tsim Sha Tsui. The accommodation range here runs from budget guesthouses to The Peninsula Hong Kong, one of Asia’s great luxury hotels.
Central on Hong Kong Island skews mid-range to luxury. In my opinion, it’s a better pick if you’re prioritizing restaurants and nightlife over proximity to Kowloon’s markets. It’s also on the doorstep of Victoria Peak, which helps if that’s high on your Hong Kong bucket list.
(To be honest, I preferred staying in Central over Kowloon. Outside of nightlife areas like Lan Kwai Fong, it’s got quieter pockets at night, which makes for better rest.)
Wan Chai sits between Central and Causeway Bay and is a solid middle-ground option. It’s a little less polished and more rough around the edges than Central, but more affordable and still well-connected.
Causeway Bay makes sense if shopping is the main event. It’s one of the densest retail areas in Hong Kong, and the food options here are excellent.
Here’s where I’d stay as a first-time visitor…
Transportation in Hong Kong
Getting there
By air
Hong Kong is served by Hong Kong International Airport (HKG). The airport is located on the man-made island of Chek Lap Kok off the coast of Lantau Island.
Several major airlines fly into HKG, including local carriers Air Hong Kong, Cathay Pacific, and Hong Kong Airlines, as well as international airlines such as China Airlines, China Eastern Airlines, Singapore Airlines, and Thai Airways.
Getting around
Like many Asian cities, public transportation in Hong Kong is highly efficient and easy to navigate. Except for hitting up the MTR during rush hour (trust me on this one: don’t do it unless you have to!), getting around the city is a relatively painless affair.
By MTR
By far, my favorite way of getting around any city is the subway, and Hong Kong is no exception. A total of 11 rail lines (10 heavy, one light) run throughout HK. They zip travelers to practically any place worth checking out—even as far as mainland China.
Depending on the distance, MTR fares range between HK$3.6 and $52.6.
By bus
If you’re looking to leave the city center areas (such as to Lantau Island or the New Territories), you’ll likely need to use the bus system.
In my experience, buses in Hong Kong are a tad more confusing than the MTR. But by following the right routes and getting a little help from drivers (some of whom might speak some English, unlike in other East Asian cities), you should be able to find your way without a problem.
By ferry
With Hong Kong’s seaside location, several ferries operate routes between Kowloon, Hong Kong Island, and the Outlying Islands.
No ferry route in the territory, though, is more famous than the Star Ferry.
Puttering across Victoria Harbour between Tsim Sha Tsui and Central for over a century, this famous ferry boat offers one of the city’s best sightseeing opportunities.
I was shocked on my first layover to shell out less than the cost of a Starbucks coffee for this unforgettable cruise. The harbor crossing on the Star Ferry takes about 10 minutes, and, for HK$2.50, the views are hard to beat.
What to know before you go
- Visa: Unlike the rest of China, most Western passport holders get 90 days in Hong Kong visa-free. Check your specific country’s arrangement before you go, as it differs from mainland China’s entry requirements.
- Octopus card: I’d recommend getting one of these convenient payment cards at the airport on arrival. It’ll remove friction and stress from every transit decision for the rest of the trip.
- Cash: Hong Kong is more cash-friendly than many Asian cities, but the MTR and most restaurants accept cards and mobile payment without issue. I’d carry some extra HKD in my wallet for markets and street food.
- Language: Cantonese is the primary language. English is widely understood, particularly in hotels, restaurants, and tourist areas. Signage on the MTR is in English throughout.
