After living in South Korea as an English teacher, I can say that I have a complicated relationship with this East Asian country.
As a former expat, I didn’t have a superb experience. On the other hand, as a traveler, I was intrigued by this country to no end.
The best part about my stay in South Korea certainly wasn’t my day-to-day life in Gangwon-do. (No, that was actually quite miserable, if I’m being totally honest.) It was the weekend trips I was able to take to explore interesting cities like Seoul and Busan, and historic and cultural destinations like Andong and Gyeongju, that kept me going.
After squeezing in much of the country on weekend getaways from my teaching job, here’s what I’d focus on if I were a first-time traveler to South Korea…
When to visit South Korea
Like other countries in East Asia, South Korea rocks out four distinct seasons. Summers are sweaty and wet, while winters are predictably cold and snowy. Fall and spring fall somewhere in between.
Despite the extreme heat and increased rainfall, visitors travel around Korea in hordes during the summer months.
(Yeah, I don’t get it either. It’s a genuinely unpleasant time to travel anywhere in East Asia in summer, if you ask me.)
Instead, I would recommend visiting Korea in the spring or autumn shoulder seasons when crowds are smaller, and accommodations and flight prices are more reasonable.
(I promise: You’ll thank me for this tip.)
The best times to visit South Korea is late March and early April when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom throughout the country, and autumn, between October and November, with the beautiful, bright fall colors in full swing.
While the cherry blossoms are the draw in South Korea in spring, I should pad that recommendation with a warning.
The air quality on the Korean Peninsula isn’t exactly stellar in the spring months. Yellow dust storms from the Gobi Desert kick up a fuss and create some nasty conditions.
(I didn’t experience the yellow dust from hell myself, but from locals I spoke to, it definitely sounds NOT so fun.)
I can, however, vouch for visiting South Korea in autumn. (It’s when I spent most of my time here.)
Sure, the temperatures in fall get a little crisp around the peninsula, but the autumn colors and better air quality more than make up for it.
Need more information on when to visit and how to prepare? Check out these helpful guides:
Where to go in South Korea
One of the things that surprised me most about South Korea was how much variety there was within a short bus or train ride.
From plying the neon-blazed streets of Seoul to wandering around serene temples nestled in the mountains around Gyeongju or chilling out on the beach on Jeju Island, there’s a little something for every style of traveler in South Korea.
If I were planning a trip here, here’s where I’d start…
Seoul
I can’t think of a better introduction to South Korea than its buzzing city of Seoul. And while in hindsight I can’t say I connected with this megapolis as quickly as I did with other East Asian cities like Tokyo, Taipei, Kyoto, or Hong Kong, over time I’ve realized there’s a lot to love about the Korean capital.
For culinary brilliance, Seoul might well be one of the best food cities in the world. (More than slightly underrated if you ask me.)
And with temples and grand palaces battling with fashion boutiques and mountainous urban hiking trails, there’s more than enough to keep first-time visitors busy in this crazy ol’ city.
Ready to plan a trip to Seoul? Check out these helpful resources from my Seoul Travel Guide:
Gyeongju
Whereas it took me a day or two to “get” Seoul, Gyeongju was an instant hit for me. The cultural heart of South Korea is loaded with historical pleasures that I guarantee will drop your jaw like no other place in the country.
Gyeongju and its surroundings are chock-full of tombs and temples that more than hint at its importance in the country’s history.
The most impressive and famous of Gyeongju’s attractions is Bulguksa, a temple dating back to the 8th century and nestled among pristine mountains that feel worlds away from the buzz enveloping much of the peninsula.
Getting to see this national treasure alone is, in my opinion, reason enough to add Gyeongju to your first South Korea itinerary.
Busan
Even more so than Seoul, I can’t say I warmed up to Busan instantly. South Korea’s second-biggest city gets far fewer visitors than the capital. And I think it’s a shame because once you get past Busan’s “grouchier” face, you’ll discover that it offers one of the best urban experiences in South Korea.
I’m sure that the brash attitude of Busan is bound to ruffle a few feathers with first-time visitors. I hesitate to say that’s just all part of its charm.
While it took me a little while to adjust to Busan’s faceless sprawl, the pleasures of the city seemed to reveal themselves to me when I took the city at a slower pace.
Dive into its markets, fill your stomach with fresh seafood, lounge on its beaches, or hike to its remote temples, and I’m willing to bet that you’ll discover (much like I did) that big ol’ Busan isn’t as unappealing as its first impressions let on.
Ready to plan a trip to Busan? Check out these helpful resources:
Andong
Compared to the chaos I experience in bigger Korean cities, the pleasures of Andong were far simpler. What I found in this quieter corner of South Korea showcases the country’s more traditional face.
Adjusting to the slow pace of life in Andong, especially coming from buzzy Seoul or Busan, can be one of the biggest challenges you’ll have as a first-time visitor.
Of all the city’s drawcards, none is more tempting than the Andong Folk Village. Sure, it’s a tad kitschy, but with urban development sweeping across the peninsula at a furious pace, there aren’t many authentic examples of traditional everyday Korean architecture remaining in the country.
This folk village is one of your best chances to see it in action.
Jeju Island
The quickest way I can describe Jeju Island in a pinch is that it’s a small slice of Hawaii off the southern coast of Korea. But that explanation is probably far too simplistic.
The small Korean volcanic island of Jeju is a little of that—and a whole lot more. Whether you find yourself hiking through its Jeju Olle Trails, powering up Korea’s highest mountain, Hallasan, or admiring the sunrise atop the extinct Ilchulbong volcano, it’s not hard to explain why Jeju Island is one of the most popular places to visit in South Korea.
What to eat in Korea
I’m not going to lie: I wasn’t always a fan of Korean food. In fact, when I first moved to South Korea to start my teaching job, I loathed it.
Unlike the familiar tang of Chinese or Japanese food, the flavors of Korean cuisine are a little more shocking for Western taste buds. But, as I’d soon discover, that’s part of what makes Korean food so appealing.
Korean food is anything but ordinary. It’s spicy, complex, and, once you get over the initial shock, highly addictive. Here are a few of the most popular foods in South Korea to scope out on your first trip:
- Kimchi: At nearly every meal, you’ll find a side of these fermented Korean vegetables. To foreigners, kimchi is often synonymous with its napa cabbage variety, but the term covers any vegetables that are fermented with this method. Tastes vary by region and city, so it can be a little hit-and-miss. I can attest that the strong flavors and spiciness can take some getting used to. (I absolutely hated it at first, if I’m being honest.) And, oh yeah, it’s also super-duper healthy.
- Bulgogi: In my opinion, this is one of the easiest dishes to introduce yourself to Korean cuisine. This grilled and marinated beef is sweet, savory, and packed with flavor. The first time I had it served with lettuce leaves and smeared with ssamjang, a flavourful fermented bean paste, it broke me out of my Korean food funk and made me start to see things in a new way.
- Bibimbap: There’s no universal standard for this mixed rice dish. Bibimbap arranges rice with mixed vegetables and gochujang (fermented spicy bean paste) for flavoring. Simply mix and eat. It can lean a bit spicy at times, but with all the veggies, it feels surprisingly light.
- Japchae: A delicious dish featuring stir-fried sweet-potato noodles and vegetables. The taste is both sweet and savory. It was one of the few dishes in South Korea I’d label as instantly lovable.
- Tteokbokki: One of the ultimate Korean street foods. These stir-fried rice cakes often use a gochujang-based sauce to fire up the flavors. I found these kinda hit-or-miss. Some versions are life-affirming; others, firmly take-it-or-leave-it.
Transportation
Getting there
Most visitors enter South Korea via Seoul’s Incheon International Airport (ICN). Several airlines fly into Incheon International, including Korean Air and Asiana Airlines.
Getting around
One of the things I loved most about traveling in South Korea was how easy it is to get around. The public transportation system here is excellent, and only getting better by the year.
Here’s how I’d travel around as a first-time visitor…
By train
The quickest and most comfortable way I found for getting around South Korea is by train. There are efficient routes between most major cities, including the high-speed KTX bullet train connecting Seoul to Busan, all the way across the country, in less than 3 hours.
By bus
Traveling by bus in Korea is another good option. Although it’s cheaper and routes are plentiful, it’s generally slower than the train and, in my opinion, much less comfortable.
I’d recommend sticking to express buses rather than local ones for the quickest and most comfortable ride.
By air
With the ease and speed of overland travel in South Korea, I can’t see much reason to fly between domestic destinations. The one major exception is the popular Jeju Island route that would otherwise require a train and ferry trip.
By ferry
South Korea has a surprisingly robust ferry network connecting its port cities and islands. If you simply love traveling by water, it could be an option, but flights and overland routes tend to be much quicker and more comfortable.
For getting to far-flung places like Ulleungdo, you may, however, have no choice.
