I didn’t reach Kyoto until my second stop in Japan. And after spending three days exploring the city, I could see why the former Japanese imperial capital slots into nearly every traveler’s first trip to Japan.
Like many first-time visitors, I was instantly charmed by Kyoto’s temples & shrines, from the world-famous torii tunnel at Fushimi Inari-Taisha to the golden reflections at Kinkaku-ji. Throw in the (somewhat) otherworldly Arashiyama and the relaxing traditional backstreets of Higashiyama, and it’s no surprise that I left Kyoto more spirited than before. (And aching to return!)
Here’s exactly what I’d tell every first-time visitor before visiting Kyoto, including when to visit, how long to spend, what to see & do, what to eat, where to stay, and how to get around…
When to visit Kyoto
Like most of Japan, Kyoto runs through all four seasons. And each season changes what the city feels like to walk around as a first-timer.
The best time to visit Kyoto is spring or fall. Both seasons trade the extremes of summer humidity and winter chill for milder, drier days. In my opinion, this makes a huge difference when your plans involve walking between temples all day.
Spring runs from late March into early April, hitting its peak when cherry blossoms (sakura) fill the city in shades of pink and white.
Unfortunately, when I visited Kyoto, I missed peak cherry blossom bloom by about two weeks. If I had more flexibility, however, this would be exactly when I’d plan to be here.
(Although I’ll throw a caveat in here that this is also one of the busiest times of the year in Kyoto, thanks to the massive crowds of tourists looking to hanami in one of Japan’s most famous travel destinations.)
If I couldn’t visit in spring, I’d gladly trade that in for November. During the peak of autumn, the trees around beautiful neighborhoods like Higashiyama and Arashiyama turn orange, yellow, and red almost overnight.
How many days do I need in Kyoto as a first-time visitor?
I’d recommend spending at least three days in Kyoto as a first-time visitor. This will be enough time to cover many of the city’s highlights, including several of its most beautiful temples & shrines, markets, and attractions on the fringe of the city like Arashiyama Bamboo Grove.
Although you can still see quite a bit with one or two days in Kyoto, it’ll feel like a mad rush to squeeze everything in.
If I had flexibility in my Japan travel plans, I’d likely throw in an extra day or two in Kyoto to tackle a few day trips, like Nara or Uji.
(I should mention, however, that Osaka is as good a base as Kyoto for exploring the Kansai area. And the hotel selection there is more extensive and offers better value.)
Here are a few Kyoto itineraries to help you start planning your trip…
What to see & do in Kyoto
One thing I was fully aware of on my first visit to Kyoto was that it had more temples & shrines than I could see in a month. So, I stopped trying to check ’em all off a list and picked the few I knew I needed to see as a first-timer in the city.
I started my first morning in Kyoto at Fushimi Inari-taisha, arriving before 9 am, hoping I’d beat the tourist crowds. That fantasy ended the second I saw its world-famous Senbon Torii, the dense stretch of vermilion torii gates near the shrine’s base, already packed shoulder to shoulder.
Fortunately, the crowds thinned out fast once I started climbing the mountain path towards the summit of Mount Inari. Even if I couldn’t make it to Fushimi Inari-taisha before the crowds, I’d happily spend an extra 15 to 20 minutes heading up the trail for a little peace and to explore its smaller sub-shrines.
From Fushimi Inari-taisha, I’d explore the beautiful Higashiyama area, starting with Kiyomizu-dera. The temple’s wooden terrace, built without a single nail, delivers one of the best views I found anywhere in the city.
(Like Fushimi Inari, I’d try to arrive at Kiyomizu-dera much earlier in the morning to avoid the thickest tourist crowds.)
One of Kyoto’s other highlights, Gion District, famed for its geisha culture, lives just next door to Higashiyama. Hanamikoji-dori looks exactly like the postcard version of old Kyoto I’d pictured before arriving. Shirakawa Minami-dori, a canal-side lane a few blocks over, might be the best-looking street I walked in the entire city.
(Shirakawa Minami-dori is apparently at its most beautiful during cherry blossom when the weeping trees drape pink blossoms over the canal.)
A fifteen-minute walk from Gion District, Nishiki Market turned into one of my favorite places to eat in the whole city, with Kyoto delights like fresh seafood and yuba (tofu skin). It’s easy to lose an hour at Nishiki Market without meaning to.
Across town, I’d put Kinkaku-ji slightly ahead of its sibling Ginkaku-ji for first-time visitors. (Although I can’t fault either; they’re both stunning and worth visiting!)
Kinkaku-ji is covered top to bottom in gold leaf, mirrored in a pond with a backdrop of green rolling hills. As much as I loved visiting this spot, I should warn that it gets crowded fast. On my third day in Kyoto, I visited just after opening and tour groups had already filled the viewing area.
(To get a sense of how busy this place gets, they actually installed “no selfie stick” signs to keep the crowds moving along the pondside path.)
Just outside the city, Arashiyama, is the one other Kyoto attraction I’d try to squeeze into. I’ll admit that the now-famous Arashiyama Bamboo Grove starts out underwhelming, over-packed with day-trippers taking the same photo at the entrance.
Keep walking. When I got deeper into Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, the crowds finally thinned. Hearing the wind whistling through creaking bamboo at the edge of the forest, away from the noisiest visitors, was one of the highlights of my day here.
If I had a spare day, Nara is the one day trip from Kyoto I wouldn’t skip. (I did it from Osaka, but it’s just as easy to do from here.)
The highlight here is Nara Park, home to several beautiful temples & shrines, and thousands of free-roaming deer. I’d carve out time to explore Kasuga Taisha Shrine, a beautiful shrine in the middle of the forest, and Todai-ji Temple, the world’s largest wooden building hiding a massive bronzed Buddha statue.
Here’s what I’d try to see & do in Kyoto on a first visit…
What to eat in Kyoto
Kyoto doesn’t carry the same reputation for food as nearby Osaka or even Tokyo. But I ate as well here as anywhere else on the trip.
The meal that puts Kyoto on the food map is kaiseki. Kyoto’s own multi-course haute cuisine, kaiseki, is built around whatever’s freshest that week, with each course arriving as its own small surprise.
For something stranger, nishin soba swaps the usual pork or tempura toppings for herring and shiitake mushrooms. Nishin soba is a winter favorite, served in a hot tsuyu broth.
Unlike Osaka, Kyoto is landlocked. But that doesn’t stop it from being a great city to taste sushi. The local specialty is saba sushi, mackerel cured in salt and vinegar. It’s prepared in the same way as Kyoto’s fishmongers have preserved fish for centuries.
No matter what city I visited in Japan, Tonkotsu ramen was on my radar. And while it’s not a Kyoto special, the rich pork broth version here holds up against any I’ve had elsewhere in Japan. Even if at a chain ramen joint like Ichiran or Ippudo, I’d gladly grab a bowl at any time of the day.
Whenever I needed a break, matcha desserts and mochi were never more than a block away. (Somehow I didn’t pack on the pounds from snacking on these daily.)
Here’s what I’d look to eat & drink in Kyoto…
Where to stay in Kyoto
As it’s one of Japan’s most popular destinations, there’s no shortage of options for places to stay in Kyoto. The prices, however, sit on the higher end of Japanese standards almost everywhere.
For a first visit, I’d recommend staying in Higashiyama and Gion. Both of these areas look exactly like the postcard version of old Kyoto I’d pictured before arriving. And both are close to all of the places I’d want to hit up as a first-time visitor.
The only caveat is that these areas are not cheap and they’re busy. But neither of these complaints can outweigh the location.
If food matters more to you than temple-hopping and sightseeing, Nakagyo is Kyoto’s actual center, both geographically and in feel. It sits closest to Nishiki Market, Nijo Castle, and Pontocho Alley. It’s not as pretty as Higashiyama or Gion, but the location is almost as convenient.
Home to Kyoto Station, Shimogyo isn’t the prettiest neighborhood I visited in the city. But if day trips to Nara, Uji, or Osaka were a big part of my itinerary, I’d base myself here without hesitation to get close to the main train station.
Here’s how I’d choose where to stay in Kyoto on a first trip…
Transportation
Getting there
By air
Kyoto has no international airport of its own. Most first-time visitors from abroad fly into Kansai International Airport (KIX). Some flights from within Japan sometimes route through Osaka International Airport (ITM) instead.
The most common carriers flying into KIX from abroad include:
- All Nippon Airways
- Japan Airlines
- Peach
By train
If you’re already in Japan, the train beats flying every time. If I were taking more than a couple of long-distance trips, I’d be sure to price out a Japan Rail Pass before buying individual tickets.
A few sample routes include:
Getting around
Unlike Tokyo or Osaka, where a subway stop sat near almost everything I wanted to see, learning how to get around Kyoto meant leaning on buses to fill the gaps the subway doesn’t cover.
By subway
Kyoto runs two lines: the Karasuma Line, running north-south, and the Tozai Line, running east-west. The metro is useful for a handful of Kyoto’s central attractions, including Nijo Castle, Kyoto Imperial Palace, and Nishiki Market.
By bus
I found myself using the bus far more often in Kyoto than in other big Japanese cities. Several major tourist destinations like Kinkaku-ji, Ginkaku-ji, and Ryoan-ji are only accessible by bus.
The bus network covers nearly the whole city, but it’s noticeably less intuitive for non-Japanese speakers than trains or the subway. Make sure you know your route number and stop before boarding.
What to know before you go
Visa
Most Western passport holders, including from the US, Canada, the UK, and much of the EU, can enter Japan visa-free for short tourist stays. Requirements shift depending on nationality, so check the current rules for your passport before booking anything.
Cash
Japanese cities like Kyoto still run heavily on cash, more than I expected going in. Convenience stores like 7-Eleven and Family Mart have ATMs that reliably accept foreign cards. I’d still keep a stock of yen on hand instead of assuming cards work everywhere. (I’ve noticed this especially at smaller restaurants and temple ticket counters.)
Language
English narrows fast once you’re outside hotels and the busiest tourist sites. Download a translation app before you arrive. It came in handy more than once ordering off a Japanese-only menu.
Etiquette
None of Kyoto’s rules are complicated, but it’s noticeable when visitors skip them. Keep your voice down on trains, skip eating while walking through crowded streets, and remove your shoes wherever you see a step up and a shoe rack. (That includes plenty of restaurants and traditional inns, not just temples.)
