My first trip to Tokyo was a rushed 36-hour layover, squeezed between flights on my way to Taipei. After dreaming about Japan’s capital since I was a kid, I landed expecting neon and noise. And, of course, I got that. But I didn’t expect how bummed I’d be after needing to leave after a day.
On my next visit, a few years later, I came back to Tokyo with a full week as part of a longer Japan itinerary, with no layover clock running out on me. And I still didn’t feel it was enough.
By my third stop, I’d stopped trying to see everything in the megacity and started picking my favorites to dig deeper into instead.
That’s the version of Tokyo I’m working from here. I don’t want to give a checklist of everything the city has.
(Ya, that’d be impossible; I don’t think a lifetime’d be enough to see it all!)
Instead, this guide is a (growing) account of some of the things I think any first-timer should try to check out on their first visit to Japan’s capital.
If I were to return tomorrow, here’s the Tokyo travel guide I wish I had before my first stopover, covering when to visit, how long to stay, what to see & do, where to stay, and how to get around.
When to visit Tokyo
The best time to visit Tokyo is in mid-spring (April to early May) or late autumn (late October to mid-November).
Temperatures sit in a comfortable range both times, rainfall drops off from its summer peak, and the city puts on its best show, with cherry blossoms in spring and the brilliant fall colors in autumn.
I’d steer clear of visiting Tokyo in the summer if you can help it. On my first trip, I landed in Tokyo in July. Between the heat, the humidity, and typhoon season running May through October (peaking July to September), it’s the least comfortable time of year to walk the city all day.
Winters in Tokyo are milder than they look on paper. It’s rarely brutal. (Well, at least nothing like the annual winter hellscapes I face in my native Canada.)
Winter is also the cheapest, least crowded time to visit Tokyo, if you don’t mind bundling up for the cooler temperatures.
For a full month-by-month breakdown of when to go to Tokyo, check out my dedicated Tokyo weather guide.
How many days do I need in Tokyo?
I’d budget at least 4 to 5 days for a first visit to Tokyo. It’s enough to explore Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Asakusa properly, plus one or two more neighborhoods, without feeling like you’re sprinting between train platforms the whole time.
With a full week, Tokyo really starts to open up. It’s enough to start adding more neighborhoods like Harajuku, Akihabara, Ueno, and Odaiba to the mix, plus enjoying a day trip or two out of the city to places like Kamakura or Nikko.
(These are both must-sees on a first-trip to Japan, in my opinion.)
If Tokyo is only one stop on a longer Japan itinerary, I still wouldn’t cut it below 3 days. Any shorter and you’ll spend more time on trains getting to things than actually seeing them.
(This is exactly what my first 36-hour layover felt like.)
Here are some Tokyo sightseeing itineraries to help you get you started…
What to do in Tokyo
In a city the size of Tokyo, the harder problem is narrowing down what to see, not filling time.
Here’s where I’d send a first-time visitor, drawn from my own three stops in Tokyo rather than a full list of everything on offer…
To experience Tokyo’s historic side, I’d start my first day in Asakusa.
Kaminarimon Gate opens into Nakamise-dori, a shopping street leading to Senso-ji Temple. This Buddhist temple has roots going back to the 7th century, even though today’s structure is a post-war reconstruction.
On my second trip, I spent more time in Shinjuku than in any other Tokyo neighborhood. The tight and grungy postwar alleyways of Golden Gai and the neon-flooded streets of Kabukicho are two extremes worth seeing back-to-back; one’s quieter and more nostalgic, the other loud, unapologetic, and more modern.
In all my travels, I’ve yet to encounter another place quite like Shibuya. The world’s busiest pedestrian intersection, Shibuya Crossing, is worth seeing at least once just for its sheer scale.
Center Gai, behind it, is where I’d point first-time visitors shopping for Japanese streetwear. (Or looking for a great spot to snack.)
Next door in Harajuku, I’d take to Takeshita Street, the quirky neighborhood’s loud, colorful heart. Meiji Shrine sits close enough to walk to for the exact opposite mood. This Shinto shrine, tucked into 70 hectares of forest, made Tokyo’s noise disappear faster than I expected.
On all three of my stops in Tokyo, Ginza has been one of my favorite areas to roam around. This holds especially true around Ginza Crossing, where the landmark clock of Wako Department Store has kept watch over the intersection for decades. Ginza is Tokyo’s answer to high-end shopping streets elsewhere in Asia, but I found plenty here for budget-conscious travelers, too.
If gadgets and pop culture are more your speed, Chuo-dori, the main strip of Akihabara, is worth an afternoon even without a shopping list, thanks to its theme cafes and electronics shops.
And for a Tokyo evening that isn’t Shinjuku or Shibuya, I’d send first-timers to Roppongi Hills for the skyline view from Mori Tower.
With a longer stay, I’d also try to squeeze in a visit to Odaiba across the bay for even better views once the sun’s fully down.
Here’s what I’d try to see & do in Tokyo on a first visit…
What to eat in Tokyo
Although I’d eaten plenty of sushi back home, I wasn’t quite prepared for the quirkiness of Tokyo’s food scene.
Wandering the stalls of Tsukiji Outer Market, a raw sushi breakfast ended up being a highlight of my first morning in Tokyo.
(If you had told me that I would happily gobble down raw tuna shavings, sea urchin, and salmon roe and actually enjoy it even two days prior to this, I would have called you certifiably insane.)
For ramen, I’d point first-time visitors to Ichiran. This popular local chain has locations all around the city, and its budget-friendly tonkotsu bowl became one of my go-to meals when I was traveling around Japan.
For yakitori, the small izakaya squeezed under the train tracks at Yurakucho are the best I’ve found for grilled skewers and a cold beer after a long day of walking around Tokyo.
And if you only have time for one drink out, I’d spend it in Golden Gai. Most of its two hundred-odd bars seat just five to thirty people.
Stuffing my somewhat claustrophobic self into one of the hole-in-the-wall biiru joints was one of the more surprisingly memorable moments in my Tokyo explorations.
Here’s how I’d choose where & what to eat in Tokyo on a first visit…
Where to stay in Tokyo
Tokyo sprawls across 23 wards. Picking a hotel near the wrong station can turn a short sightseeing trip into a full-day commute.
Across my three stops in the city, I’ve based myself in Asakusa, Shinjuku, and Ginza. I’d recommend all three for different reasons.
Shinjuku is my personal favorite base. It’s central, extremely well-connected, and never really quiets down. It’s either exactly what you want or exactly what you don’t.
For my first trip, I chose Asakusa as my base, and it turned out to be the right call for a short, time-crunched visit. It’s calmer than Shinjuku or Shibuya and puts the city’s historic core at your fingertips.
(It’s also quite a bit cheaper, in my experience, than these other more central areas.)
On my third stop in Tokyo, I stayed in Ginza. I’d pick it again for a safe, central home base with easy access to shopping and some of the city’s best restaurants. (And a little closer to Haneda Airport if you have an earlier flight to catch.)
Ginza straddles a price point above Asakusa, but it’s usually below flashier hotels in Shinjuku.
I’d consider staying in Shibuya, too, especially if nightlife and shopping mattered more to me than a quiet night’s sleep. It sits right alongside Shinjuku as one of the best-connected areas for exploring Tokyo to the fullest.
Here’s how I’d choose where to stay in Tokyo on a first trip…
Transportation
Getting there
By air
Tokyo is served by two airports: Tokyo Narita International (NRT) and Tokyo Haneda Airport (HND).
I’d take Haneda over Narita whenever the flight options allow it; it cuts a real chunk of time off the trip into the city.
From Haneda Airport, the Tokyo Monorail runs to Hamamatsucho Station in about 13 minutes for roughly ¥520 (IC card fare), connecting straight onto the JR Yamanote Line.
From Narita Airport, the Keisei Skyliner covers the trip to Nippori Station in 36 minutes for around ¥2,580 at the counter, or a little less if you book online in advance.
The JR Narita Express is another option if your hotel sits closer to a JR line.
Getting around
By subway & train
I’ve relied on the subway almost exclusively on every trip to Tokyo, and it hasn’t let me down once. Load a Suica or Pasmo IC card (around ¥2,000 to start, including a refundable deposit), and you can tap in and out of nearly every train, subway, and bus in the city without thinking about individual fares.
The JR Yamanote Line, a loop connecting most of the neighborhoods in this guide, is the one I’d get familiar with first.
If you’re planning to ride the subway heavily on a single day, I’d recommend grabbing the Tokyo Subway Ticket, with day passes starting around ¥700, up to ¥2,000 for 72 hours. It can often work out cheaper than paying per ride.
One word of caution: I’d avoid rush hour if you can. The stories about Tokyo’s packed subway cars are true. If you’ve got any claustrophobic tendencies, as I do, rush-hour on the Tokyo metro is not the time to test them.
For the full breakdown of cards, lines, and etiquette, I’ve got a complete Tokyo transportation guide.
What to know before you go
Visa
Travelers from the US, UK, Canada, Australia, and most of the EU can enter Japan visa-free for up to 90 days as a Temporary Visitor.
I’d register on Visit Japan Web before you fly. It generates the immigration and customs QR codes that speed up arrival.
Cash
Tokyo is more card-friendly than it used to be, but I’d still carry cash. Convenience stores, small restaurants, and older shops in neighborhoods like Golden Gai or Yurakucho still lean cash-only.
ATMs are the easiest way I’ve found to withdraw cash with a foreign card.
Language
English signage is common on trains and in major stations, but it thins out fast once you’re off the main tourist paths.
I’d have a translation app ready for my trip. Learning a handful of basic phrases goes further in Tokyo than it does in most other major cities I’ve visited, even compared to other Asian cities like Hong Kong and Singapore.
Etiquette
None of Japan’s etiquette rules are complicated, but it’s noticeable when visitors skip them.
A few I’d keep in mind are to keep your voice down on trains, don’t eat while walking through crowded streets, and remove your shoes wherever you see a step up and a shoe rack, which includes some restaurants, not just homes and temples.
