After spending much of my itinerary immersed in the chaos of Shanghai’s downtown core, I was super stoked for a chance to take a breather in one of the city center’s quieter quarters: the Former French Concession.
And it did NOT disappoint.
Walking into the French Concession for the first time felt like entering an entirely different city. (Or more accurately, continent.)
This leafy neighborhood helped me trade in central Shanghai’s skyscrapers and neon lights for eight kilometers of cool, tree-lined avenues. As I wandered along the shaded streets, I couldn’t get enough of the well-preserved shikumen architecture, hiding boutiques, restaurants, art galleries, bars, and outdoor cafes that move at an entirely different pace from the rest of the city.
It was the kind of neighborhood that instantly made me want to slow down. And, in a city as wild as Shanghai, that’s really saying something.
If you’re looking to escape the madness of China’s biggest city, here’s how I’d spend a half-day in the French Concession…
A (very) quick history of the French Concession
The history of Shanghai’s French Quarter goes back to 1849. The area was built after China lost the Opium Wars. At the time, Shanghai conceded land to the French government as part of an international port of call.
What I found interesting is that the French themselves, numbering no more than 2,000, were overwhelmingly outnumbered by the Russians, English, and Americans who lived in the area, alongside the Chinese professionals who migrated in.
The Former French Concession reached its pinnacle of glamour in the 1930s. While walking through the neighborhood, I had no problem feeling traces of that “golden” era.
What to expect
As I strolled through the Former French Concession, my eyes fixated on the traditional shikumen. These stone-gated townhouses are found nowhere else in the world outside Shanghai. They combine European and Chinese architecture in a way that shouldn’t work. (But absolutely does!)
Many of the shikumen have been converted into boutiques, galleries, and restaurants, particularly around Xintiandi and Tianzifang, two areas that anchor the neighborhood’s social life. The streets are lined with shops, outdoor cafes, and art galleries, and there’s always something happening in the courtyards and alleyways.
I loved wandering around the French Concession’s charming pedestrian spaces among buzzing outdoor restaurants and bars. As I explored, I spotted several spots to snack on traditional Chinese street food and fine international cuisine or to sip on French wine, German beer, or Chinese green tea.
Taking a walk through the French Concession
I (officially) started my walk through the French Concession at Fuxing Park. At 92,000 square meters, Fuxing Park was once the biggest park in Shanghai. It centers around a garden, designed by the French in 1909 and featuring a sunken flower bed, cool meandering paths, and pretty pavilions.
I was lucky enough to get to Fuxing Park early in the day. Like in other parks I’d visited through East Asia, I loved going “zen” and watching locals practice tai chi, play majong, sing, and dance.
After a breather in Fuxing Park, I let myself get lost in the alleyways. (And, in my experience, it’s honestly the best thing you can do in the French Concession!)
From Fuxing Park, it’s a short walk to Xintiandi, the most polished, modern corner of the French Concession. The North Block’s cluster of shikumen-lined lanes is home to upscale international restaurants and open-air bars. The South Block leans more toward modern shopping.
It’s touristy, yes, but, in my opinion, the architecture alone makes it worth at least an afternoon wander!
Nearby Tianzifang is the grittier, more atmospheric alternative to Xintiandi. (And the area I actually preferred myself.) It’s set upon a maze of narrow alleyways packed with art studios, craft boutiques, and independent cafes, with locals still living above many of the shops.
On my trip, I enjoyed stopping in at the Propaganda Poster Art Centre. Their collection of Maoist-era posters dating back to 1940 is genuinely fascinating, and ended up being a surprise highlight of the neighborhood for me.
NOTE: In 2019, the Propaganda Poster Art Centre moved out of the French Concession. It’s now located in an office building on Yan’an West Road. If the collection still holds and you’re nearby, I’d say it’s worth a quick detour.
If you’re not tight on time during your day in Shanghai, two former residences in the neighborhood are also worth a stop.
The Zhang Leping Former Residence (288 Wuyuan Road) preserves the home of the cartoonist behind China’s beloved Sanmao comics. He lived and worked from 1950 until his death in 1992.
Entry to the home is free.
The Soong Ching Ling Memorial Residence (1843 Huaihai Middle Road) was the home of Sun Yat-sen’s wife and later Honorary President of the People’s Republic. It’s more formal, with preserved rooms, political artifacts, and two black government sedans still parked in the garage. (One of them was a gift from Stalin!)
Entry to the residence is 20 yuan. It’s open Tuesday to Sunday.
Getting here
Take Metro Line 1 to South Huangpi Road Station, leaving the station via Exit 3. Or take Metro Line 10 to Xintiandi Station, and pop out at Exit 6.
